The Screaming Speedometer Revisited

[dirtrack49]

OK, I am about to cut the cable to this damn speedometer.
Just got the vehicle running again after sitting for 15 years falling apart at my mother's house. Put about 25 miles on it and the speedo started screaming at me.
Went to disconnect and  attempt to lube the cable at the transmission housing and I will be damned if I can get up to, let alone see properly the fitting on the transmission.
This is a 66 230SL automatic. I really can't see getting to the speedo fitting at the trans without taking down the trans plate holding the transmission in place.
I know that it may be the speedo head itself causing the problem, however, I am thinking I should at least attempt to lube the cable before trying to take the speedo head out of the dash.
So, what should I do next? Any and all solutions to this dilemma most certainly welcomed.
TIA
Tom L.
66 230SL Auto

[66andBlue]

Unfortunately, cutting the cable wont help you, screaming back at it might do the trick.  

Seriously, here is a description of how it can be done: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9741.0 Reply #12 and later ones.
And here is a photo of the broken beast: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=6156 Reply #3

[mmizesko]

Tom,

During my "remodeling" project, I sent my Speedo and tach down to texas to Rick Borth, who lubed the bearings on the inside. My tach howled like a stuck monkey when the temperature got below 45 degrees.  Did the cable replacement and lube trick, but it was the tach itself.  The whole thing will cost you about $150 if you just do the speedo, and you'll get lots of enjoyment out of note hearing the speedo wail.

http://www.speedometer.com/

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

[garymand]

My tach squeeled and the speedo jumped.  I replaced both cables with low cost ebay parts and they work fine now.  You are just going to have to learn how to get your hands into those crazy places.

[dirtrack49]

Thanks to everyone for your input.

I finally got the allen bolt out using an "L" allen wrench that was 4 5/8 inch long. The trick is to put the automatic in 2nd gear so that you can access the bolt from underneath the vehicle with the shift linkage clear. This way, you do not need to take off the shift linkage, or remove the transmission plate. However, I did need to use a pair of pliers, to apply some force to the allen wrench. Thankfully, it held up to the added torque.

Now, my new problem, appears to be that I can not get the cable to release from the transmission fitting. Maybe, I am being over cautious? There is a rubber outer liner on the cable itself. I feel that if I am able to get the cable to extract from the trans, I may never get it to go back in.

I know this has been done before, however, I may be over thinking this entire process. It is to say the least, difficult to get a hand on the cable itself let alone seeing what you are doing. I only hope that if I can get the cable to release, I can successfully replace the same.

Any and all help welcomed.

Tom L.
66 230SL Auto