A few other points to consider:
1) The clearance is very tight, tighter than what I was used to on American solid lifters: 0.004 and 0.008
2) I like them tight. It is a stug pull on the feeler gauges.
3) I don't like to adjust hot because it takes me a while and the motor cools off. I prefer to do it cold.
4) I always go around twice. Once to adjust and once to verify. Sometimes I find one too tight or too loose.
5) Always look for wear on the lobes AND on the back of the cam lobes. I ran across a picture someone here submitted and you could clearly see that more than one cam lobe had seen constant contact all the way around the lobe. That means the valve never closed fully, and the gap was 0.00000, zero, zilch, nadda.
I'd rather hear them a little than not at all! (Its better to be too loose than too tight!)
6) It is tricky too, because with age and infrequent adjustment, the balls wear into the lifter sockets with a ridge an valley. When you rotate the ball, that orientation changes and will have a tendency to wear rapidly resulting in a loose gap sooner than more round shapes. I've seen little posts left at the tops of the balls as the balls wore down around the hole in the lifter, but still, they held clearance pretty well because the car wasn't drive much.
http://www.authenticclassics.com/Valve-Cover-Label-Decal-for-Mercedes-280SL-p/auth-003776.htmhttp://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/ValveAdjustmentTourThe 'tour' is not out of the manual, but a good tutorial of 'how' you do it. notice the head should be retorqued hot and with the motor hot you can adjust the valves hot to 6 and 10 rather than 4 and 8.