Auto Trans, no kickdown and rough shifts

[Benz Dr.]

There's bit more to this. The double acting solenoid can be removed and taken apart. There's a cap on the end that contains the lever which moves the linkage and this will need to be removed. You will be able to lift the lever free of the housing and this is the part that's causing all of the trouble.
On the lever you will find a small brass bushing. Remove it and clean everything until the bushing moves freely on the lever shaft. Lubricate everything and it will work as intended. If it still won't work properly, the solenoid is faulty and will need to be replaced. Odds are, removed ones that weren't working really do work and are simply siezed inside.

[gvillayandre]

Hi,

Can you send pictures where is the cap and removable parts?

Are you talking in the solenoid part or in the transmission part of the linkage?

Mine is quite stucked!!! No movement on transmission lever.

It will help

[gvillayandre]

Hi,

Can the lever on the transmission be easely removed?

There is a hex bolt that seems stoping this lever to be exiting.

[Iconic]

OK, I've been off the forum for a little while.
Joe (ja17), my system does as you say, but since when I get off the throttle, and the car is in gear and coasting, the CSS kicks in and brings the throttle above idle. So, on my downshift, instead of the solenoid being in the low pressure position for a smoother downshift, mine is in the middle pressure position and I believe that is why my downshift is not as smooth as it should be. I probably have an adjustment wrong, but I thought that description might give you or someone a clue as to what I am doing wrong. In other words, I thought the position should be in low pressure for downshifts, but how can it be there with a CSS bringing the revs up?

gvillayandre, good luck to you. Mine was so seized that I needed to hit with a lot of force to get it to move the first time. My goal was to try to do it without removing it from the car. I got it to the point where it worked great when I stored it in the fall (read the whole string if you havn't already). I have not driven it yet this "Spring". So, I will know soon if it re-seized or if I can "drive into the sunset, happily ever after". We had a ton of salt on the roads, so I'm just waiting for several good rains. We are almost there.

twistedtree, I'll try to check the BBB one of these days. But, it is always a tough question. Research, clean, or fix something versus DRIVE it. It takes a lot of self control to not drive it.

Benz Dr. (Dan), thank you, but I really didn't want to remove it. Except for this one last question, I'm good to go with the 3 position solenoid. Definitely your suggestion will be helpful to some.

Desertpagoda, no parts needed (on this subject at least), thank you.   

[ja17]

Hello Iconic,

Seems like a fine adjustment at this point.  The idle solenoid should not increase idle, but maintain it at around 700 rpm. The venturi switch should change over at around 1100 rpms. The two should not conflict. Sounds like the idle solenoid could be set too high, or the venturi swich is set to  too soon. Try loosening the venturi switch and adjust it a bit later.

[Iconic]

Joe, I can't thank you enough.
That makes perfect sense.
I can't wait to try it out.

[ptooner]

Hello Iconic,

Seems like a fine adjustment at this point.  The idle solenoid should not increase idle, but maintain it at around 700 rpm. The venturi switch should change over at around 1100 rpms. The two should not conflict. Sounds like the idle solenoid could be set too high, or the venturi swich is set to  too soon. Try loosening the venturi switch and adjust it a bit later.

Had similar problems a couple of years ago.  I decided to remove the knob thing on the high idle solenoid so it couldn't affect the throttle position.  That took care of my problems.  I have the AC disconnected at the moment so I haven't seen any problems but if and when I re-connect it I might re-visit the solenoid.  I replaced my transmission because the old one was too far gone to rebuild and the wiring was slightly different on the new one.  It took me quite a while to determine that the high idle solenoid couldn't work properly with wiring on the new transmission.  Attempts to hook it up resulted in the same problems that Iconic started with.  It wouldn't kick down and it shifted hard.  After disconnecting the solenoid (which was my eventual total solution) the transmission works perfectly.

Gerry

[MrAZ]

Some helpful numbers:  On my 250SL, the 3 way solenoid moves just 1/4 inch forward and 1/4 inch rearward for a total of 1/2 travel.  The linkage turnbuckle is 9mm, the top and bottom nuts that tighten against the turnbuckle are 8mm.  The bottom nut has left handed threads, the top nut has right handed threads.  It is easier to push the linkage to the front of the car, harder to the rear.  To get the solenoid moving again, it is is wiser to use a long screwdriver, not a hammer, on the solenoid arm while using the side of the inspection hole for leverage.  The sticky tar on the transmission tunnel can get all over you and your tools, so cover it with something temporarily.  (Why do I know that?). 

It is typically best to do two separate operations - cleaning and lubing.  A blast of aerosol brake cleaner will clean out the gunk, then lube the 2 ball/pivot points with a finger full of grease.  The lube sprays will smell forever due to being sprayed on parts that later get hot in use.

If you use a mirror and a flashlight, you can see if the linkage is moving properly by yourself, (without irritating your mate who has already been very patient with your Pagoda obsession).

This Forum saved me hundreds of dollars by not buying a new solenoid.  Thanks, guys!       

[gvillayandre]

Hi,

Let me reopen this post.

I have the kickdown now working months ago, but I still don't get trottle part of the double accting solenoid working.

I think is because the switch at the venturi unit.

Can someone confirm if the attached picture?
If is this one, can some one give me the MB part nº?
Also how to test if is working or not?

Thanks in advance

[ja17]

The throttle switch should be activated "on" when the linkage is at rest, (do this test with the car at idle with the engine running). The switch should be "off" (open) when the linkage is moved to mid range(you can do this test with the engine off but the ignition on). The switch will again be 'on" when the throttle linkage is pushed to the floor and the "kick-down" switch is engaged, (you can also do this test with the engine off and the ignition on).

You may have to disconnect the wires to check the switch with an ohm meter or you can also  use a 12volt test light. Your linkages must be set correctly for the switch to work correctly. Use the "linkage tour" to correctly set your linkages.

Keep us up to date!

[gvillayandre]

Thanks Joe,

This switch is always on, no mater where trottle is.

I have test it with a multimeter with continuity test and is all time engaged.

Should I dismount it to check it?

Any advise of how it works internally?

Thank you!

[ja17]

You may have to disconnect the wires at the switch to check it with an ohm meter as I recall.  The switch can be removed, opened and the contacts filed clean.  i recently fixed one that way.

[gvillayandre]

Hi Joe,

The swich is working properlly. I was testing it wrongly. Voltage testing is required as you said.

The problem is the correct linkage set.

I am one of the Uninformed person who set idle with the Venturi bolt and locking nut. Lucky to have the information on this topic!
I will proceed with a full linkage tour review.
I have read the linkage tour, but I can't understand how to adjust idle and what are proper revs at idle. Can you give me some instructions?
Idle problem solve after reading some posts. Air screw at intake and fuel adjust knob in FIP, where the clue

Now with this corrected, the movement on the double acting solenoid is now working on its two positions.
But something else is on my mind. When I set on gear the CSS is pushing the linkage and deactivating the Venturi switch
This is normal or should I adjust CSS to avoid the ventury switch to be disconnected?
Is it normal to deactivate switch at this low movement? Can this switch be adjusted and how?

Thanks in advance!!

[ja17]

The idle should be around 800 rpms and the idle solenoid should not push the linkage enough to kick-off the intake switch. Your venturi switch should be set to kick off at around 1100-1400rpms.

[gvillayandre]

Perfect!!

Now works smoothly.

No rough shifts on down shifting.

Thanks so much Joe!!

[ja17]

Your Welcome and good job gvillayandre!

Happy Motoring!