In most cases the bigger the better, especially if you live in North Dakota or Alaska. Batteries have reduced voltage as temps get colder and oil gets thicker. At 30 below, a 550 CCA battery is not going to get a motor turning.
I just replaced a 1000 CA with a 870 CA in my 250SL/280 motor. (approximately due to my memory) The problem you are facing is the same as if you have a small battery charger to charge your 500 CA battery when it is down to 50% charge.
Your alternator has a regulator between it and the battery (and all the other stuff that might be on with the motor running) a 55 Amp Alternator can put out a whole lot more than 55 amps but the heat would make short work of it. The regulator holds the maximum current draw to 55 Amps. If your battery is low on charge, keep as much electronics, lights, and blowers off until the battery gets back up a bit, becasue head lights and fan motors pull a lot of current. Each amp your car needs reduces the 55 Amps available to charge the battery.
A battery charger also has a regulator between the charging voltage and the battery to-be-charged. Its a current regulator (as opposed to a voltage regulator.
) If you are charging a 500 Amp battery that needs 250 Amps to get up to full charge, the charger holds the current to below the max rating of the charger per hour. A 40 Amp charger will limit the current to 40 Amps and it will take a few hours to get the battery up to 460A. Once the current draw is less that 40A, the regulator will begin reducing the current all the way down to a 'trickle'.
The wiring in your car is designed to carry the battery charging current plus maybe 100%, (at least that's how some of us were taught to design. Like I think MB designers ensure 150K engines by designing to 300K miles.) The wire carrying charging current to your battery should handle the 2x full alternator rating rating and it is usually not fused.
Bottom line, you could jump start you car and leave the jumper battery connected until both were charged up again. If the car battery is a 700 and the jumper is a 700 the only problem might be the wire size between the regulator and your car battery. It needs to carry the full current, but the full current is limited by your regulator to what, 55 Amps? You'll just use a lot of gas, OH, another point: At low RPMs like Idle, the alternator might not be turning fast enough to reach full regulated output. That's why you might want to get the rpms up when jumpstarting a dead battery from another car.
I have a friend with a huge stereo in his Bmw. He has a second battery in the trunk. I don't know the sizes, but I'd guess maybe 800 CA each! Dumb, lots of money, no real benefit, and a lot of extra weight. Bottom line for this question: the alternator doesn't care. It doesn't even know there are 1600 CA out there somewhere. It just cranks out the 55 to 75 (maybe) Amps Max.
So I hope I've laid tireless questin to rest