Author Topic: Brake progressive softness  (Read 2922 times)

n/a

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Brake progressive softness
« on: September 04, 2004, 06:49:10 »
Hi all,
My 280SL brakes work and feel just fine but after a few seconds of continuous depression (like at a stoplite) the brake pedal will v-e-r-y slowly depress in order to hold the car. Once the pedal nearly bottoms out, the brakes will hold and the pedal goes no further.

I searched this forum and dont see any similar symptoms. My engine RPMs do not increase when pedal is depressed. I have previously rebuilt my calipers and replaced the brake lines. I also replaced the vacuum check valve but none of these have fixed my problem. There are no brake fluid leaks, so I am thinking a vacuum or master cylinder problem is causing my pedal to become soft?

Mike McMahon, Baltimore MD
1970 280SL 4-speed manual
olive green ext, bamboo int

graphic66

  • Guest
Re: Brake progressive softness
« Reply #1 on: September 04, 2004, 09:07:09 »
My guess is a bad master cylinder.

ja17

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  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Brake progressive softness
« Reply #2 on: September 04, 2004, 10:12:31 »
Hello Mike,
Graphic 66 is right, these are the classic symptoms of a bad brake master cylinder. Since this is a dual system, the pedal reaches the secondary circuit near the floor.
During hard braking the fluid pressure will keep the seals flared against the  cylinder walls in the master, however under light pedal pressure the seals relax away from the brake cylinder walls loosing their seal and the pedal slowly creeps downward until reaching secondary circuit near the floor. If you look carefully under your master cylinder where it meets the booster you may see signs of some brake fluid leakage. Brake fluid will also begin leaking into the booster often times.
Rebuild kits are available, but most people believe it is not worth the time or risk to save about $50 or $60 dollars rebuilding one. New master cylinders can be had for around $100 ovften times.
Be sure to bench bleed your new master before installtion. Conventional brake fluid is excellent paint remover so don't spill any on your car's finish!
Mercedes recommends that brake fluid should be replaced every two years! Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air which internally rusts your brake cylinders and calipers! This moisture can also cause complete brake failure if it boils during very hard braking. In such a case, the boiling water will fill  the system air and the brakes go away!


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback