Author Topic: Clock - glove box light wiring  (Read 3867 times)

ctaylor738

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Clock - glove box light wiring
« on: November 28, 2014, 23:36:21 »
Working on a 280SL with a persistent battery drain that seemed to be caused by the non-working clock trying to wind itself.  With an analog meter connected between battery negative and the chassis ground, you could see repeated one-second bursts of current.  Since the owner did not care if the clock worked, we decided to disconnect it.  So out came the glove box.  With the clock disconnected, the glove box light didn't work.  It seems that the positive feed for the glove box light runs through the clock, and is not in the connector at the back of the clock like you would expect.  I put a jumper in the connector to get the light to work.

Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

kampala

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Re: Clock - glove box light wiring
« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2014, 15:17:35 »
I just pulled the glove box in order to get the clock out and after removing the clock, the glove box light stayed ON -- I needed to disconnect the push switch at the glove box to keep the light off while the clock was out.   This was on a 250.

250sl - later - manual
280sl - 1971 - Auto - LSD

mmizesko

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Re: Clock - glove box light wiring
« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2014, 15:52:16 »
On my 280SL the two wires off the glovebox light connect to a terminal block back in the dash, back close to the wiper motor arms. Not connected to the clock block.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH
1970 280SL 291H Dark Olive

ctaylor738

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Re: Clock - glove box light wiring
« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2014, 16:08:27 »
Right.  And the positive side of the terminal is switched by the little button?
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA