Heater dash control lever jamming ('64 230SL)

[relbhcb]

I have noticed that the upper right lever (which directs heat to windscreen or footwell) can become so stiff that it is impossible to move it when it is cold, but if I put the heater on full blast for 10-15 minutes the slider then frees itself. Not sure whether it is the cable, the slider or the baffle/deflector that is jamming, but suspect it is the latter as otherwise why would it free up when warm?

Any suggestions for a cure?

TIA

[KevinC]

Julian,

What ever you do...Don't force the lever. These break off fairly easily. This is a very typical pagoda problem.  The cable or control is probably binding. Others will comment I am sure but you may want to take a look at this for starters...

http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/ReplaceHeaterLeavers

Plan on half a day to get things apart and about a full day to put it all back together. 

Kevin                                                         

[ja17]

Could also be a flap binding in the heater box. Take the speaker vent and speaker out and view the cables etc from above.  You can also remove the radio to see more .

[Flyair]

Julian
The displaced cable can be one reason, in the case of my Pagoda the plastic (Bakelite?) elements of the heating system were broken. Fortunately they can be sourced quite easily. Take this opportunity and have a look at the rectangular rubber seal and the filter that may be worn out.  

This issue is well described in our Technical Manual, but some chapters may not be accessible to those who are not Full Members

[relbhcb]

Thanks for the replies; I'd like to think that it is a flap binding in the heater box as it _always_ frees up after ~10 minutes of heated air. If it were a jammed or displaced cable would it resolve itself like that?

Julian

[Raymond]

Depending on what type of lubricant is inside the cable, it could very well free up when warmed.  I made the mistake of using an oil that got sticky over time and it acts like that.  Do not force it!  The rubber-like material the levers are made of just get more brittle and susceptible to stress fractures over time.

[zoegrlh]

I do beleive it is a problem with the heater flap.  My lever was doing the same thing (hard to move.  I went down under the passenger side to the heater housing at the firewall.  Reach your hand up to the heater housing, you will find the flap.  As someone works the leaver, you work the flap.  I will bet that it is binding and with the help of your hand on the flap it will move.  Let me know if that is the cure.
Bob

[wwheeler]

If it is a binding cable, this is a typical repair on motorcycle cables. I have used it on my W111 for both the heater cables and the hood opening cable. This sort of device works great if you can get to one end of the cable. In addition to adding lubricant, you also flush out the old. Just be sure to have a rag to catch the output on the other side.

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=13272

[perry113]

It is more than likely the heater flap that is binding and not the cable. I had the same issue with my 65 230SL. I also had another issue with my heater control valve being seized which caused the control lever on dash to be stuck. That required going in through the firewall plug and oiling and freeing up the control valve.

All usual problems associated with W113 cars.

Whatever you do take your time to take and apart to evaluate and don't man handle anything.

Regards

Peter

[alweed]

One response recommends "flushing" & relubing binding cables.  What specific lubricant should be used for the job?