Author Topic: Timing tips???? (Read 7228 times)

n/a · « **on:** September 14, 2004, 11:53:23 »

Hi, I am about ready to adjust the timing of my '70 sl and just noticed that I will have to approach engine from the left (driver side) and twist my head and body such that I can see the timing mark. This is where I wish hood came up the conventional way so that I could see the timing marks easier at a different angle. Any tips from other members who have figured out how to adjust timing with a minumum of body contorting? Thanks!

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #1 on:** September 14, 2004, 15:03:26 »

First loosen the bolt that secures the distributor.

Then, while you are 'hovering' over your engine holding the timing light, you can very slowly turn the distributor in the direction (clockwise or counter-clockwise) that will change the timing to the number of degrees you are looking to get. Note that the specs call for different advance values at different RPM's (from memory: idle=800, 1,500 and 4,000 RPM's).

I have found that where you position the timing light makes a difference in the amount of body contortion you have to apply. Be aware of sore muscles afterwards

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Benz Dr. · « **Reply #2 on:** September 14, 2004, 15:12:58 »

I usually put a mark on the hub so I can see the timing marks with the strobe. A lot of times you can see them but can't tell one from another. I put a mark at TDC, one for idle timing and one for full advance. Pretty hard to go wrong doing that.

When I do rebuilding the hub gets sand blasted then painted black. We use a yellow marker over the numbers and then wipe off the excess right away. This leaves the numbers much easier to see and looks good too.

Daniel G Caron

Naj ✝︎ · « **Reply #3 on:** September 15, 2004, 01:50:33 »

Mind the fan blades.
They bite[

!]
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

hands_aus · « **Reply #4 on:** September 15, 2004, 04:53:23 »

I made my garage as dark as possible so that the timing light seemed very bright.

Also wipe clean the marks on the vibration dampener hub.

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

n/a · « **Reply #5 on:** September 15, 2004, 21:59:07 »

It is much easier to set the timing with the hood off, but that is a hassle.

While on this topic, do people time the ignition exactly according to specs or tweek it using some other criteria? I have heard different approaches from some experienced mechanics. Any thoughts?

Best regards,
Don

Malc · « **Reply #6 on:** September 16, 2004, 04:36:35 »

I find using a dab of "white out" painted on the marks helps with the timing light.

First I set as per factory, marked the position of the distributor, then drive about. Depending on what the engine does I then advance or retard it to stop any pre-detonation (pinking) / get the best performance. (BMW 2002Tii running on unleaded petrol UK). I have found that cars do vary, my MGA runs best about 2 degrees advanced from the factory recommended, but the 2002Tii is retarded about 6 degrees to stop it "pinking"
My Landy is running fine 6 degrees retarded at the factory recommended setting for unleaded fuel.

Er I guess I am saying you should "twiddle" rather than taking factory settings as gospel

HTH
Malc

n/a · « **Reply #7 on:** September 16, 2004, 10:40:16 »

All good tips, thanks mates! Many of these tips, I was aware of, but I guess there is no way around the cramped situation in positioning and pointing the timing light. It would be great if there was some way to create a quick disconnect system for the hood, This would not be a difficult project if you think about it. In the meantime, I will learn how to be a contortionist, thanks!

TheEngineer · « **Reply #8 on:** September 16, 2004, 23:09:51 »

I found, that even with twisting myself as much as I can, it's real hard to see. I really find it easier just to remove the hood: I stick some cardboard between the fenders and the hood, remove the four M5 bolts and lift it off. There's a hole in the channel above the spring: I use an S - shaped hook in there to hold the spring up. I test drive the car without hood.

1969 280SL,Signal Red, A/T, P/S, A/C, Both tops. Ret. engr. 1967 230SL - Sold

bayleif · « **Reply #9 on:** September 17, 2004, 07:20:14 »

I go with the contortionist approach and leave the hood (bonnet) alone. One tip, which may be obvious, I put a leather work glove on my right hand so that I can brace myself by holding onto the oil filler cap without pain from the warm engine. I also paint the timing marks using my wife's white nail polish. It's not a good color for her anyway.
At 6'2 (and fat) I'm surprized that I can actually position myself to see anything. My biggest problem getting my face at the right distance for my eyes to focus without getting my nose in the fan blades. And then, at 53, standing up straight again can also be a problem.

Chuck Bartlett
1969 Signal Red 4 Speed

hands_aus · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2004, 00:33:34 »

I get in between the LHS hinge and the bonnet safety hook.

I can see the timing marker by looking through the gap between the distributor and the hex head of the bolt on the front of the block/head near the distributor.

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

n/a · « **Reply #11 on:** September 18, 2004, 21:17:15 »

This has got to be the most fun thread on the list. Keep it coming!
Best regards,
Don

Malc · « **Reply #12 on:** September 20, 2004, 02:58:52 »

Could you put the car on ramps and get a look from underneath?
Do this with the MGA
Just a thought
Malc

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2004, 11:39:10 »

You need to be on the top side of the engine, to be able to rev the car to the appropriate RPM's and check the timing at each RPM level.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Malc · « **Reply #14 on:** September 21, 2004, 01:35:32 »

quote:
Originally posted by cees klumper

You need to be on the top side of the engine, to be able to rev the car to the appropriate RPM's and check the timing at each RPM level.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

Cees,
I have just had a thought, I' ll get the wife under the car with the timing light while I twiddle with the ignition

Malc

mdsalemi · « **Reply #15 on:** September 21, 2004, 06:05:50 »

You guys try way too hard. I've got the best approach.

1) Drive over to Marine City on a beautiful day

2) Pay $5 and take the lovely Blue Water Ferry across the river

3) Drop car at Dr. Benz's

No contortion, no skinned knuckles--just fresh air, a nice drive and no tools required.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

Malc · « **Reply #16 on:** September 21, 2004, 06:14:54 »

One heck of a drive for me Michael

Cheers
Malc

mdsalemi · « **Reply #17 on:** September 21, 2004, 07:42:56 »

quote:
Originally posted by Malc

One heck of a drive for me Michael
Cheers
Malc

Well, Malc--actually quite simple. Frome Stonehaven take the A957 to the A92 to the A90, head towards Edinburgh...

PS. Pack a lunch.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

Malc · « **Reply #18 on:** September 21, 2004, 08:28:57 »

quote:
Originally posted by mdsalemi

quote:
Originally posted by Malc

One heck of a drive for me Michael
Cheers
Malc

Well, Malc--actually quite simple. Frome Stonehaven take the A957 to the A92 to the A90, head towards Edinburgh...

PS. Pack a lunch.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

Dang! [:p] I was going to go via Glasgow, thought it was a short cut

Cheers
Malc

ja17 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 21, 2004, 17:25:20 »

Hello,
Working in low light or the dark helps a lot to see the timing marks as long as you can keep body parts and tools out of the fan blade!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

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