Repaint of trunk lid is required some questions

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

The previous owners wife of my car closed the trunk and a small area in the mid section just about 8 inches above the Mercedes Star left a mark from too much stuff in the trunk. The damage was a outward dent if you like that represented a 1/2 inch circular outward dent and leaving the paint in a star formation I.e the paint split due to the outward dent. This was hardly noticeable up to now and one tiny paint section now broke out. I've taken a photo it is not too clear, however, you can see what I mean.

Anyway, I got two qotes one $450- and the other $700- the first is a smaller shop the last quite large, both do good wok and have German cars in there shops. Both like to remove the trunk lid and repaint the area then clear coat the entire trunk lid polish it to blend in with the fenders.

My questions are:-

1) should I let them take off the trunk lid? I am concerned about the wiring.
2) how difficult will it be to remove the chrome pieces and reinstall them?
3) or will they just tape the chrome pieces and finish the clear coat?

What are some of your experiences if a small area on your car required repaint?

I apprichiate your help! I booked an appointment for early August. The shops are very busy

[49er]

Hello Rolf, the star, trunk handle and the "280SL" emblem are easily removed from the lid. I don't think it would be necessary to remove the entire trunk lid but will leave that to others that have had similar work done on their cars.

John

[66andBlue]

Hi Rolf-Dieter,
I assume you also want to have the dent disappear again before painting. 
Thus, both shops are correct to remove the lid to do a proper repair. Also the edges of the lid are in body color (not black as the inside) and that is difficult to do with the lid on the car.
Removing the parts is easy and I suggest that you do this before they loose the small parts. For example, iI have seen several Pagodas with missing rubber pads (flat O-rings) between the emblem and the metal (also the star has one). Take a look here and you see all the parts that should be on the lid:
http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/230-280SL-R113/75-b-Kofferraumklappe-und-Ausstattung/?_artperpage=10&listorderby=oxstock&listorder=desc
If you car still has the black felt damping piece on the inside between the lid and the cross bars, take it out and save it, it is another piece that gets lost.
$700 is a bit high in my opinion.
Any guarantee they'll finish the job before you leave for PUB? 

[mbzse]

.../...Thus, both shops are correct to remove the lid to do a proper repair

When this is done, be sure to instruct the workshop to _absolutely not_ cut the wire for the trunk light !
Wire will come out nicely if you unscrew the light fitting up by the chrome handle on the trunk lid, and disconnect the wire there. Pop off the connector shell halves, then pull wire out. Wire is fastened by clips, slide wire out of those and leave clips in position.
You may want to do this yourself, before giving the car away.

If the workshop cut your wire straight off (common occurrance) it is a difficult repair
/Hans in Sweden
.

[mmizesko]

Make sure the shop wedges the trunk hinges when removing the lid, as they are spring loaded.

Mike

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

John, Alfred and Mike, thank you all for your help and tips, much aappripchiated!

Alfred, no worries, job will be done in time for my PUB departure. Job is scheduled for August 4th and should last no more then 3 days.

[geert1000]

Isn't it true that if the paint is original, it's "single stage"? No clear coat. I'm very wary of clear coats in general. Any other comments or opinions?

[49er]

You are correct, no clear coat on the original paint.

John

[hkollan]

Isn't it true that if the paint is original, it's "single stage"? No clear coat. I'm very wary of clear coats in general. Any other comments or opinions?

I don't think that is correct for metallic paint.  Base paint and clear coat were applied.

Hans

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Only one of the shops (the larger one that gave me the $700- estimate) mentioned the clear coat and also said then polishing outward to the rear fenders to match the existing color finish.

My car was most likely repainted in 1992 (I am not certain if that's) during restuaration at RM here in Canada. Anyway the pie shaped piece of paint that now is missing allows a good view of the bare metal below. The smaller shop (highly recommended to me) owner looked at the car and said "nice clean metal below, I will remove the lid repaint it and polish it will match the existing color. I don't want to leave it as is, any moisture will surely attract rust and I like to avoid it at all cost. I trust this fellow he has 35 years in the business under his belt. I will report back in August once all the work was done.

Thanks again to All for your help and input. I feel better about it having received some input and tips from long time owners like yourselfs ! Thanks !

[wjsvb ✝︎]

Rolf-Dieter:  Bear in mind that the lid is aluminum: unlikely to rust but does present a different prep technique.  Surprised that the shop's estimator did not point this out.  Jon