Author Topic: power steering pump change  (Read 2554 times)

lurtch

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power steering pump change
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:39:16 »

The day  finally arrived when my power steering pump was  emitting a groaning sound every time I moved the steering wheel. The whine was constant even with no-load. Steering feedback was compromised as well, so a catastrophic failure was near. Big dilemma #1 became which shaft do I have, the tapered cone or the straight shaft? Dilemma #2 was, oh crap the mounting bolts that hold it in its cradle are behind the drive pulley.

A check of the BBB was not very informative: “remove pump from bracket and install new pump”. Thanks for nothing. I checked the Haynes manual for these cars and step 4 says “remove radiator”. Regrettably, that is the only way you can gain access to use a pulley puller.

Removed the radiator, took a chance and bought a Performance Tool WB7022 puller to get  the pulley off. Close but no cigar. The jaws were perfect for  GM products but not for Mercedes. So I fired up my die grinder and began to re-contour the rib on the jaw halves  that engage the groove in the pulley.

Still not home yet. The retention collar that slides over the jaws to secure them would not slide into place because the jaws could not fully seat. I had to use hose clamps to hold the jaws partially down in the groove.

However, once I got good tool engagement, I turned the hex on the shaft about five flats and the pulley popped right off. This is typical for the taper shaft version. Success at last. AutoHauz AZ was the vendor for the pump rebuilt by C & M Hydraulics. Pump cost was $190 the core charge was another $200 refundable.

All good now in PagodaVille,

Larry in CA







Larry Hemstreet  in  N. Cal.

1966  230SL  (restored) Met. Anthracite w/ Maroon leather
1981  300TD-T (Concours condition, 86K, GETRAG 5sp.)
1982  300TD-T (parted out)
1986  560SEC (totaled)
1991  300TE (gifted)
1998  E320 (sold)
2004  E320 wagon (gifted)
2008  CLK550 Cabriolet