Author Topic: Water to Warm Running Device help  (Read 4566 times)

alpina

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Water to Warm Running Device help
« on: July 25, 2015, 21:44:16 »
I need some advice on the coolant flowing to the WRD. After repairing a stuck air value.
The valve is still not closing off the air when the car is up to operating temp. The thermostat
Was tested in hot water and the plunger does move out.
I have a feeling that the WRD is not receiving hot enough water. The pipes to the thermostat housing are not hot, and the housing is just warm to the touch.  Where the pipe to the heater
Is very hot.
When removing the WRD there was very little water in the pipes.
Does anyone have any ideas? I have ordered a new thermostat just in case. But I am sure the water going to the WRD is not hot, or not much is getting there.
What would you suggest I test.
Also the pipe from the WRD that runs to the throttle body had little or no water in it.

DM.

ctaylor738

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2015, 05:21:44 »
I think you have air in the system.  I suggest that you drain some coolant from the radiator and refill the system through the hose from the heater inlet with the coolant tank cap off.  Reconnect the heater hose.  Then disconnect the top radiator hose and pour a liter or so of coolant into the hose.  Reconnect the hose and start the car, and let it warm up with the coolant tank cap off.
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

Jonny B

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2015, 16:33:24 »
It also helps if you can park the car with the front up in the air a bit (slanted driveway, ramps sort of thing).
Jonny B
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Benz Dr.

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2015, 20:20:50 »
Not common, but I've seen the area around the IP thermostat get plugged up with spooge. Once the engine is warmed up a bit, touch the housing to see if it's getting hot. You should not be able to touch it if it's working.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
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alpina

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2015, 14:27:01 »
Okay. So today I went through all the bleed procedures suggested. Air bubbles out.
And the WRD still did not get hot to the touch. I figured a may have a blockage somewhere.
I removed the coolant pipes going to the Throttle Body. Tried to blow through the top hose to the
Throttle body, nothing. I could not get air to come out the bottom hose. I guess this is where my blockage
Is. As an experiment I by passed the Throttle body by effectively joining the two hoses together.
Started car WRD is now getting hot, real hot, very hot to the touch which I assume is what should happen.

So after all this, the question is it okay to have the throttle body bypassed ? (it is never that cold here and the car lives
In a heated garage. So not a real danger of icing up).
Also what would be the best way to try and clean the blockage. (I assume water should flow in and out).
All help welcome.

Regards

DM

ctaylor738

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2015, 16:24:25 »
I have seen a couple of cars with the throttle body bypassed.  Not exactly a best practice, but they seemed none the worse for it.

I would try a pick or a stiff piece of wire like a coat hanger to clean it out.
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

alpina

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Re: Water to Warm Running Device help
« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2015, 19:08:26 »
On the advice of AJDalton. I have managed to clear the blockage
In the throttle body. Liquid drain cleaner left overnight did the trick.
Flushed through, now there is good coolant flow through the throttle
Body. Reconnected all the hoses, started the car WRD now gets hot
And does what it should, only the air shuts off a little to soon, due to
The fact that I added a round washer to the top of the air valve. I did this
Before locating and fixing the blockage.
The next task will be removing this washer and hopefully we should be
Good to go. Then it's just a case of fine tuning.
I'm just happy that the WRD is now working. I'm sure I will have more
Questions, but for the moment thanks for the advice.

DM