Calling all OIL BURNERS

[n/a]

I have one bad cylinder and all the possible conditions are being addressed, however, I need to find a spark plug that will run in it...HOW HOT can I go...the std. plug W200T27 will last for 10 miles or less...I just tried one heat range hotter WR8DCW (7506) 0 242 229 531-076 that will last just 20 miles. anybody have any info...different brand?  thanx

[ja17]

Hello,
Is that spark plug being fouled by fuel, oil or coolant?

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[n/a]

""""""""OIL"""""""""

[graphic66]

Years ago you could buy a spark plug extention to screw in the plug hole and then screw in the spark plug and it would be kept away from the oil. I don't know about the 113 but these worked great in Chevy V8s. Some were well known to wear one cylinder premature and this was a band aid fix.

[mdsalemi]

As an inexpensive trial, go to an NGK plug.  BP6ES or whatever heat ranges are around this.  You can find this plug in stock at any good motorcycle shop or order from a foreign auto parts store.  It is the correct NGK plug for our cars.

The NGK's are designed, so I'm told, for high-revving, hot running, 2-stroke Japanese racing motorcycles.  Thus the life they live in a 113 engine is a bit easier.


Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[ja17]

Hello 71280SL,
Sounds like you have a loose intake valve guide in the head. It may be ridding up and down with the valve and literally pumping oil into the cylinder. Eventually you will ruin the head or worse, drop a valve into the cylinder if this is the case. Remove the valve cover and take a flashlight and examine the intake valve guide and seal in the bad cylinder.
A head reconditioning will fix the problem at this point if this is the cause.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[n/a]

Joe, this is the motor that was discussed in this thread; http://index.php?topic=2270

Fresh rebuild oil fouling #2 after a couple miles of running.  Ended up retorqing the head to get it to stop for me.  Guess it opened back up on the way home or else something else is wrong.  In anyones experience, how do the oil passages work in these blocks.  The thought from my machinist that did the head is the oil is being pushed into the cylinder around the gasket.  Doesn't hold much water because I figured I would have major blowby out the breather in the valve cover.  The oil pressure maxes the gauge on startup (I'm sure the pressure reliefs are in the correct place (kept the oil pump parts together)).  The intake valve seal and guide looked fine.  Put a thin bead of sealant around them both for troubleshooting purposes and it didn't change the oil consumption.  

This is becomming embarrassing...

'68 Ranchero GT '88 5.0 EFI 5-speed stock  

'93 Mustang LX hatch 5.0 5 speed, 10-1 CR, 73mm C+L MAF, SN92 Paxton, 3" SS power pipes, 65mm TB, Ported + Polished GT-40 intake, 24lb injectors, AFR 185's, 1.60 FMS rockers, Crane 2030 cam, Total Seal rings, SAAC valve covers, 1 5/8" BBK Longtubes, 2.5" custom X pipe, MAC 2.5" Catback 3" tips, 3.55 gears, ROH rims, Calypso green.

11.78 @ 118mph with 1.7 60' times, 390hp @ 5,800rpm and 400lbft @ 4,200rpm (Torque Monster 302)

Currently rebuilding a '71 SL

[ja17]

Hello MD,
I remember this thread, I did not associate the "71280SL" with it.
OK, the oil is sent up through  the block in the front, then at the head/block surface it is channeled to the right front head bolt where it follows the bolt hole up and into the front camstand where it sent to lubricate the camshaft. Unless your problem is in cylinder #1 the problem must be something else.
New head gaskets on the 280-SL (M130 eng)should be torqued at 80lb. during assembly, after first warm-up retorque again with warm engine  . Re-torque warm engine one last time around 500 miles. Always loosen radiator cap be for re-toquing to relieve pressure in cooling system.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[A Dalton]

. The plug you are trying is a Resistor plug.. you just want a W8DC, non resistor..[ though , I do not think that will help much]

 MD,
 You may want to try that leak down test..

[n/a]

Joe, wonderful info...  Haynes said 70 cold and retoruqe after 150 miles.  Still, like you I only expected oil to use the passage for #1 cam tower.  I was just wondering if any of the hundred or so ports and passages in the block may also hit a oil passage, specificly one of the threaded inserts for a head bolt.  The block was decked around .070" and the head was kissed for flatness.  The valve guide inserts were deemed fine by the machinist when he redid the head.

Basicly tore the motor down for low compression in #3 and 6 cylinders and the cam was wiped on several lobes.  Found #3 and 6 pistons had the ring lands blown apart.

Looks like the motor will be coming back apart to exorcise this demon...  Hopefully once the head is off I'll see a problem with the head gasket or oil pouring out of a port somewhere...

Jamie

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by 71280SL

I just tried one heat range hotter WR8DCW ...

I notice the "R" in that spark plug number.  This stands for Resistance, and you should not be using resistance plugs in your Pagoda.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Benz Dr.]

I use W9DC in a lot of these older engines if they run rich or use oil. Something went together wrong during the rebuild. They just don't smoke other wise.

Daniel G Caron