Part # ???

[A Dalton]

If anyone has part # info , I would appreciate such..
 113.043

 The coolant shut-off barrel gate valve that is in the water line at the heater core. [ operated via temp cable ]
 I have a decent parts library, but I can not find this part #.

 Was going to change the O ring [ have that part#], and when I grabbed it, it slipped from pliers and fell right into the core ... can see it , but after hours of various attempts, no luck.. as it has to come up as straight as it went in..
 So, if I can find one through the part# , the old one has found a new home..
 Many Thanks in advance..
... maybe it is listed on a fish card???
 A Dalton

[Benz Dr.]

They're the same ones as used in all the older sedans from the 50's. A 190SL uses the same basic part. 108/109 and the fin cars use something different I think so you need one from a car with cardboard heater boxes ( yeah that's right - cardboard )

I'm sure I have a few around here. There is no part number for this valve. Behr supplies it as part of the heater core but not as a replaceable part.

Daniel G Caron

[A Dalton]

Thanks for that info.
 I will do some searching around in these parts.
 ..I have a South Bend here, so may wind up cutting one..
going to try one more time to remove it..[ can't see like I used to,
so that doesn't help any..]
 Will post how goes it..

[hands_aus]

When I was replacing my heater valve "O" ring I tried prising the valve out using a spark plug screwed into the top of the valve.
Of course it broke off flush with the top of the valve.
Fortunately the valve was jammed in place.
I used a small drill to put a hole in the broken screw. I then tried using an "ezi out" to remove the broken screw but the "ezi out" was too big.
I was telling one of my friends who is a retired clock maker. He suggested I use a left hand drill of which he many sizes.
I chose a drill and inserted it into a hand drill and turned the handle backwards.
The broken screw popped out in the blink of an eye.
To prevent this happening again I bought a 5mm x 50 mm high tensile bolt. It was strong enough to allow me to lever/pull the valve out.
Trying to align that valve of yours from the top outside will be a real challenge.
Good Luck

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[Benz Dr.]

I've removed so many of these things over the past 20 years. Every 190SL that comes in needs to have the heaters done.
The trick is to move the valve down a small amount to start it moving and then use a screw and two screw drivers on each side to pry it up. Moving it up or down a bit at a time until it comes out.
You need to use lots of penatrating oil and take your time. Only once was I not able to remove a stuck valve and I just heated the valve and removed the whole assembly. After I had it apart I  soldered it back into place.
Make sure you use the proper O ring and clean the valve and housing with emery cloth until the valve slides into the hole freely ( ah, don't drop it into the core ) and the use some grease to lube the valve. Mark the top of the valve so you can tell where the opened tap will sit and turn it so that it will shut off completely when you have the heater lever shut off. It's more important that you have it so that it will shut off than how far open it will be. If it doesn't shut off fully you will cook in the summer heat. Even half way open will give you alot of heat on a cold day if you have everything sealed up well as far as door seals go.
My car works perfectly because I spent a lot of time on this area knowing I was going to be driving it in cold weather. The linckage going to the valve can be adusted so that it will open and close just the right amount. The arm that turns the valve can be bent up or down for fine adjustment.
All in all a frustrating, knuckle busting, teeth grinding operation but rather satisfying once done.

Daniel G Caron

[Ben]

Is it possible to check the valve is opening/shutting fully without removing too much, on an early 230 without the grommet ?

Reason I ask is its going to get cold here shortly and I never really felt the heater doing much except luke warm air !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[A Dalton]

Success..
  Got it out with a wire hook and had to pull it through upside-down. Once it was lined up, I used a nice old pair of long nosed C clip pliers that open when squeezed. Allowed me to grab the barrel from the inside.. One hell of a tricky job.. it was like trying to grap a prize with one of those mechanical arms at the Amusement Park.
 Thanks for the help and info... All is well again.

 PS
A tip for all.
 When working on this part , if one sticks a flex cable/wire into the hose neck when the valve is in the open position, it will stop the barrel from be pushed through..
 You would expect the neck on these to have a step down where they enter the core , but it is the same size straight through, so be careful..

[hands_aus]

congratulations, what dexterity!!!!

Are you a dentist/surgeon/electrician in your normal job?

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[A Dalton]

quote:Originally posted by hands_aus

congratulations, what dexterity!!!!

Are you a dentist/surgeon/electrician in your normal job?

Bob (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

 On this job, I was All of the Above...

 Probably more like a Dentist, seeing that you have to work through that 3" round inspection hole..
 You need three hands .. one for the hook, one for pliers , and one for the light
 so, the light trick was to use one of those funny head stap lamps that someone gave you on your Birthday and you thought you would never need ... nice little tool for this stuff..

 It was EASY after it was done .. but very difficult when doing, if you know what I mean
hahahaha

A PS to this repair , if any are interested..
 What I did find  on the removed part is they have a tendency to round out the square on the shaft that holds the operating lever.. The same goes for those of you that have had the screw break off..
 Well, while mine was out , I did a little surgery ..
 As Dan C said , these are hard to find and  different than the other sedan  models, but I had one from a 108 [ I believe] and , though the barrel set-up is different, the screw/lever shaft part of it is the same .
 So, I cut the stem off the 108 one,[ which is longer than the 113] drilled out the 113 hex/shaft and wound up with the 113 barrel with a 5/16 [ actual 8mm, but 5/16 works] drilled hole in the top, recessed about 1/8".
 I then inserted the 8mm screw shaft from the 108 into the hole I made on the top of the 113 barrel and soldered them together... perfect, like new part..
 One could also just solder the shaft on top of the barrel. but the recess hole trick adds  strength and allows for perfect alignment/centering of the shaft.
 I use 95/5 solder to be on the safe side....
 Worked as new. Lots of tinkering for a job that was supposed to take 1/2 hr, at the most [ O ring change]

 End...
 

[graphic66]

You can check the opening and closing by taking the hoses off the heater core and blowing through it while working the heat control levers. You can easily blow through it when open. Also it's a good time to flush it out. Take your garden hose and let it flow until clear. This helps a little sometimes if it's plugged or just crudded up.

[Ben]

quote:You can check the opening and closing by taking the hoses off the heater core and blowing through it while working the heat control levers. You can easily blow through it when open. Also it's a good time to flush it out. Take your garden hose and let it flow until clear. This helps a little sometimes if it's plugged or just crudded up.

.......yeah good idea.......I'll try it this weekend !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[JimVillers]

Arthur ..... I have been lucky that I have not lost a heater core.  When removing mine for the first time, I replaced the center screw with a very long screw.  I then cut a short piece of PVC pipe to fit over the valve assembly and used a nail puller to pry up on the center screw while using the PVC for support.  This worked well without damaging the slot.  Like Dan, I marked the hole location so that I could visually adjust the valve during reassembly.  When I installed the "correct" O-ring, it was tight and was cut by the slot in the barrel when trying to install the core.  I tried 6-8 different O-rings from the auto parts store until I found one that allowed the core to turn freely while not leaking.  A fun little project.

Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, 190E 2.3-16 Kompressor

[A Dalton]

<<A fun little project.
>>

 Yeah, the only fun one experiences when doing these kind of projects is when you are DONE....
 They can be hell when the screw snaps off and the square is worn out.. but , one way or other , we fix 'em cuz we ain't gonna do these Fall Night-Time , back curvy roads with the top down and the Tunes on WITHOUT no HEAT ... not me , anyway..

 Jim....PS
 Thank for the 190 Club Cap... and, did you get my email about the 190SL jump seat
Tnx
Arthur