Stiff suspension front left side

[w113abudhabi]

I hope some gurus can help me please.

My 1970 280SL is just about back on the road following a cylinder head rebuild. My mechanic noted prior to the rebuild that the front suspension was stiff on the front left side. Consequently I purchased the appropriate bilstein shocks and fitted to all four corners. Unfortunately the front left suspension remains stiffer than the other corners. There are no visible problems with the spring or upper and lower control arms. Can anyone provide any leads or suggestions please?

[jameshoward]

Define stiff? What do you mean? I'd be more concerned about the other 3 corners assuming they aren't stiff. The car shouldn't bounce around that much when you push down on the wings. Perhaps there's a problem with the spring on the other side?

Does the car sit correctly, ie evenly?

[w113abudhabi]

When you push down on the F/L corner there isn't any kind of downward movement. It seems as though the spring isn't moving at all.

My mechanic has another Pagoda in his shop right now that moves downwards on all four corners of the car when pressed on the fenders from above. That car doesn't bounce but just goes downwards and comes back to it's normal level as it's supposed to.

His next step is to lift the car on a 4 post hydraulic lift and I go underneath the car while his assistant will move the car in the same corner from above.

I hope this clarifies the situation.

[Raymond]

I wonder if the bushings in the control arm are binding?  Do you know the lubrication history of the car?

[GGR]

I wonder if the bushings in the control arm are binding?  Do you know the lubrication history of the car?

I thought of the same thing. I've seen several lower control arms brake due to stuck bushings.

[w113abudhabi]

It appears so. The car was greased a year back when I purchased it. However it has been sat in a very dry dusty, hostile environment for the past fe months while the cylinder head rebuild has been diagnosed, parts ordered and work done. another greasing and movement appears to have improved things

[waltklatt]

Had that same problem on my daily driver, when I started using it.
Bent shock absorber rod.
Could see the rubbing on the rod where the chrome plating wore off.
Replaced it and all was fine again.
Walter

[w113abudhabi]

I've just replaced all shocks though. Seems to be a lubrication issue and freeing up with grease and driving

[Benz Dr.]

Had that same problem on my daily driver, when I started using it.
Bent shock absorber rod.
Could see the rubbing on the rod where the chrome plating wore off.
Replaced it and all was fine again.
Walter

Yes, but he replaced his shocks.  My bet is a seized lower outer pivot.

[dirtrack49]

It appears that I have the same problem on my 66 230SL however on the right side. I had planed on replacing the shocks some time ago, but I ran into other issues with the car and my health and have yet to replace them.
Never thought it might be a problem with the suspension itself. The car had been sitting for 15 plus years.
Can anyone give us some more detail on what to look for in the suspension and how we might free it up?
TIA

[Tyler S]

Lack of lubrication is the number one cause. The suspension sits on pressure points within the components. There is no grease in these areas  as the weight of the car has pushed it out of the way and is resting metal on metal. When lubing the chassis and suspension, take the load off of it by jacking it up rom the body. This will change the geometry and allow the grease to reach those areas normally under load. Also keep a lookout for the indicative "orange dust" around any ball joints, bearings, bushings, u joints and hinges. This is a sure tale sign of a dry component. The orange dust is actually fine metal powder from the metal on metal contact that has then oxidized. Break out the manual and find EVERY lube point. Check them off as you go along. All it takes is that one hidden one that has been missed the last 20 years!
I know its a chore but disconnecting the shock and compressing the spring abit will make it much easer to diagnose the seized component. You wont be fighting them while working the suspension up and down with a pry bar.