230 SL Won't start.

[badali]

Yesterday I started my 230 SL and as it warmed up and idled well until after a few minutes it stumbled and just quit.  It was about half way between cold and the normal running temp.  I thought maybe the WRD may have stuck.  I let the engine cool over night.  Today I went out to start it and it fire right up but immediately quit.  I changed out the plugs because they looked fouled and wet.  It fired up and immediately quit.  What next?  It seems to get fuel and it fires up so I have spark.  I have never had this problem before...

[Tyler S]

Check the basics first. It can only be one of three things. Spark, fuel, air.  Make sure there is indeed a good spark during the event. Check the points. Then check fuel pressure.
Try starting it with your foot on the throttle a bit.

[wjsvb ✝︎]

Coil? Sometimes a failing one will quit as it warms up.  Jon

[badali]

Update.  I ordered a coil and new plug wires.  The cap and rotor and points are almost new.  I am getting fuel.  It still fires up and quits immediately.  The parts should be here tomorrow.

[ja17]

Brad, Do you have a fuel shut off solenoid on the IP?  If so you might try dis-connecting it.

[badali]

Joe, Is the solenoid you are talking about the one at the back?

[badali]

I got it running.  The points were burnt.  It seems that any time it runs bad or not at all the points are bad or worn.  Thanks for all the suggestions.

[66andBlue]

Hi Brad,
get a 123 ignition! 

[Cees Klumper]

What he said.

This will also ensure your distributor is new without potential issues such as excessive play in bearings, advance not accurate etc, besides eliminating the points.

[Jordan]

Good to hear you sorted it out Brad.  Could you tell they were burnt just by looking at them or did you replace and it worked?

Alfred, do you have the 123 installed in your two cars?

[66andBlue]

Jordan,
at the moment only in the 280SL. The 230SL developed a slight booster leak that I need to fix first, then tune it correctly with the original 046 (vacuum advance) dizzy to know the baseline, and then the 123 can go in.

[badali]

Jordan,
I had voltage at the coil but when I pulled a plug wire and stuck a plug against the block I had no spark.  I went to put in the feeler gauge to check the point gap and it dragged.  I then moved them apart and could see a burn mark like they tried to weld together.

I took the car for a good ride last night and it ran as good as ever...

[badali]

Here is what burnt points look like...

[Tyler S]

If you find you are burning out points very quickly and have them adjusted correctly, start looking for primary ignition circuit issues. Such as a shorted coil or ballast resistor. Use an OHM meter to check their resistance to spec. The wrong coil or resistor can also burn points. As well as leaving the Ignition on without the engine running.

[badali]

I think it happened when I turned on the key and let the fuel pump run to prime it on startup.  I won't do that again.  I This is only the second time in 8 years and 10000 miles I have changed the points.  I have adjusted them several times due to wear.  When they wear I get a low idle and stalling...  I have never had to adjust the fuel system or linkage as it seems it has never been messed with since the car is low miles and runs great.  The car has 65800 miles currently.

[Tyler S]

Letting the fuel pump prime wouldn't be enough to do it. Sounds like it was just time.