Author Topic: Re: Ready to sell my 230SL  (Read 4924 times)

68_white

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« on: February 20, 2016, 03:52:02 »
Not sure if I should start a new thread, but I think I should mention that I too am considering selling my 280SL. I cannot decipher Hagerty's rating system to tell you exactly where my car would fall within the ratings. I can tell you that over my 14 years of ownership I had restored most mechanicals to the point the car drive like new. The bad part is that the car does not have its original front fenders and the previous owner(s) did a bad job in the body work and cheap paint job. So, I would rate the body a 4 and the mechanicals a strong 2. I would like to hear your opinions on a range of values. I can give more details if needed. Thank you.
HARRY

1970 280SL RED
2002 E430 SILVER
1996 911 BLUE

Garry

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2016, 06:37:14 »
I have moved these tow posts from For Sale to here as they are more related to a general discussion on valuations of vehicles and not to the seller trying to sell his vehicle.

Now having said that, people really need to read the Hagertys rating of a vehicle as 1,2 3 or 4.  Far to many people think their cars are at Number 2 when only a small number really are and an even smaller number are at Number 1..  Here is the Hagerty Classifications  for valuation purposes.

Read it without rose coloured glasses please or you are likely to over value either your purchase or sale. Both have an effect on the successful outcome when buying or selling.

Hagertys Classifications

CLASSIFYING A VEHICLE
Correctly classifying a vehicle’s condition is paramount when using Hagerty Valuation Tools®. Our pricing is unique in that we publish Hagerty Price Guide’s prices, and Hagerty Price Guide strives to provide a value for “true” #1 vehicles; these values are often far and away more expensive than identical vehicles in lesser condition. It is estimated that more than 80% of vehicles in the market are either condition #3 or #4, so make sure you are confident in the ascribed condition. Many sellers overrate the condition; overeager buyers tend to do the same for potential purchases.

In addition to a vehicle’s condition, other factors can influence a price. Particularly, number of owners, originality, and documentation to support build claims or restoration work can all greatly effect a vehicle’s value. Note that the addition of factory options can greatly impact the vehicle’s value, so pay attention to any pricing notes that are listed in the “Vehicle Value Details” section of the “Value Your vehicle” tab of the site.

Use Hagerty Valuation Tools® as a guide, not the Gospel. Use the information presented here to gain a deeper understanding of the market, apply your senses to what you learn, and consult with experts in the field before making any buying or selling decisions.

Condition Ratings
#1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles is "concours."

#2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome, glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."

#3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts. These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.

#4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non- stock additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4 vehicle.
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G
2005 MB A200
2006 MB B200
2019 Izuzu DMax 4x4 Slide-on camper.
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68_white

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2016, 15:33:31 »
Thanks for the info Garry. As many times as I have read Hagerty's description, I cannot see anything about mechanical condition.
Sure, a car can have great looks, but could be smoking or shifting poorly. How does that affect value?
HARRY

1970 280SL RED
2002 E430 SILVER
1996 911 BLUE

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2016, 16:20:52 »
Harry,

I would say a car in somewhat poor mechanical condition is open for price negotiations once one has a chance to test drive it. I would never ever purchase a used car without examining the maintenance records and test driving the car.

I do realize this is not an option at a public auction, then normally people that bid on a car at an auction do so knowing full well that there may be some issues and they take that into account.

Dieter
DD 2011 SL 63 AMG and my 69 Pagoda 280 SL

66andBlue

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Re: Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #4 on: February 20, 2016, 17:48:49 »
Thanks for the info Garry. As many times as I have read Hagerty's description, I cannot see anything about mechanical condition.
Sure, a car can have great looks, but could be smoking or shifting poorly. How does that affect value?
A #2 car: <<No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate from the engine.>>
If it smokes it is at best a #3.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

Cees Klumper

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2016, 07:45:54 »
Agree with Harry that the Haggerty categorization seems 95% focused on optics. They probably assume that if the cosmetics are good, then the same must apply to the functional aspects. Not a safe assumption, but at least it's some indication.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

68_white

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #6 on: February 21, 2016, 21:53:30 »
Thank you all for the clarification. I still like to get an idea on a range of values for my car. Any ideas?
HARRY

1970 280SL RED
2002 E430 SILVER
1996 911 BLUE

Garry

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2016, 00:35:12 »
I cannot do that but if you are honest in your assessment of what the condition of the car is in relation to the Hagerty conditions, then the Hagerty price guide is probably the most authentic valuation you can get at this point as their pricing is based on the sale of all vehicles at the most recent auctions and thus what the market is prepared to pay.

The worst thing you can do is over inflate its condition, and probably get no sale and the same applies to buyers as well as they then pay too much

Just my 2 pence worth.
Garry
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G
2005 MB A200
2006 MB B200
2019 Izuzu DMax 4x4 Slide-on camper.
2022 Volvo XC40 Electric
2024 Volvo EX30 Electric

Martyberg

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #8 on: March 25, 2016, 07:46:57 »
Also, there seems to be a bit of a difference depending on which country you live in and if it's LHD or RHD. A #4 RHD in Australia is still going to go for US$50k plus!
1967 250SL Auto

68_white

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Re: Ready to sell my 230SL
« Reply #9 on: March 26, 2016, 19:44:05 »
Very close to what I have estimated based on my research. I came up with a range of 45-55k US$ range.
Thank you.
HARRY

1970 280SL RED
2002 E430 SILVER
1996 911 BLUE