Installing a new idler arm bushing

[Charles 230SL]

I bought a MB idler arm kit (part# 111 460 00 50) and decided to install it today.  I immediately hit a roadblock just trying to get the 26mm cap bushing loose. The cap is torqued quite tight. I never got it to break loose at the angle I was working from below the car.  It wouldn't by chance be left threaded would it? 
I noticed that the seal in the kit has what appears to be wax on one side. Why the wax? thanks,, Charles

[rwmastel]

Charles,
Hi.  Have you read this?   http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3747.0  If you don't get your answers directly from that thread, then perhaps you could PM or e-mail those who worked on their own bushings and get feedback.  I searched in "idler arm bushing".

Best of luck.  I got a kit for my 450SL and couldn't get the old one apart and had to take it to a shop.

[Charles 230SL]

thanks Rodd,
yes, I've read all idler arm posts I could find and plan to follow Dr. Dan's advice to the letter..kinda hurts my pride that I can't even get past the first step (removing the cap nut). Its been really torqued down!  So...I'm off to buy a more 'capable' 1/2-inch drive ratchet. Really tight fit on the 230; exhaust manifold doesn't allow much room to play.
thanks,Charles

[Charles 230SL]

Hello, I recently completed installation of the idler arm kit on my 230sl and thought I'd provide an update..

I finally got the idler arm cap-nut off using a 27mm (1-1/16") crowfoot wrench along with a 1/2 drive pull bar. I followed Dan's advice for removal/installation of the idler arm bushing and all went well. Note that it was NOT necessary to ream the bushing. The idler shaft was in great shape and once greased, it slid into the bushing with very little persuasion..

I've now installed a new drag link and steering shock. Unfortunately, I’ve hit another roadblock. With the drag link and steering shock installed, I found that when centered, the steering shock hits the mount for the brace bar (the brace mount is welded to the sub-frame).  The attached pictures show my dilemma.

I’m using the correct Bilstein steering shock (F4-B22-0246-BS) and correct Lemforder drag link so I can’t understand why the shock hits the brace mount!

I took a look at the old drag link and noticed that a previous owner (or shop) bent the shock mount apparently to keep the old shock from hitting the brace mount. I’ve attached a picture of the old drag link showing the (bent) shock mount.

Is it common practice to have to bend the shock mount (on the drag link) to prevent the steering shock from contacting the brace mount?  Has anyone ever encountered this problem?  Thanks, Charles

[Charles 230SL]

Here's the picture of the old drag link - note that the mount for the steering shock has been bent to prevent the shock from contacting the brace mount on the sub-frame.  Anyone ever had to do this?

[Benz Dr.]

I've changed how I R&R a 230SL idler arm bushing. I no longer cut through the bushing with a hack saw but now use a home made slide hammer. We used a long screw and ground the head down so it would fit into the idler arm housing. This will quickly and easily extract the old bushing.
I use a different screw with washers under the head and bushing to pull the new bushing into place. This prevents any damage to the bushing. I use the old bushing to pull the new one into the housing to maintain the original depth and then I place a washer under the new grease seal to pull it into place. If anything, it's the seal that's the most difficult to install. This new method makes that pretty easy to do.     

[mbzse]

.../...the drag link and steering shock installed, I found that when centered, the steering shock hits the mount for the brace bar.../...

You must turn your steering shock absorber 180 degrees. The "lump" must go towards the right side (frame of car)
/Hans in Sweden
.

[Charles 230SL]

hello Hans, I tried rotating the shock 180 degrees and it actually made the situation worse - note that the sleeve on the other end of the shock is only slightly smaller in diameter and since it spans a longer distance, it contacted/hit the guide-rod mount even more.

The problem was resolved by a front-end (primarily caster) alignment at Bud's Benz. Appears the sub-frame was too far back and since the guide-rod is mounted to the sub-frame, there simply was not enough clearance for the steering shock. Loosening the front leaf spring bolts and moving the sub-frame forward not only corrected the negative caster, it also provided correct clearance for the steering shock.

The car drives and handles remarkably now.  thanks, Charles

[Benz Dr.]

hello Hans, I tried rotating the shock 180 degrees and it actually made the situation worse - note that the sleeve on the other end of the shock is only slightly smaller in diameter and since it spans a longer distance, it contacted/hit the guide-rod mount even more.

The problem was resolved by a front-end (primarily caster) alignment at Bud's Benz. Appears the sub-frame was too far back and since the guide-rod is mounted to the sub-frame, there simply was not enough clearance for the steering shock. Loosening the front leaf spring bolts and moving the sub-frame forward not only corrected the negative caster, it also provided correct clearance for the steering shock.

The car drives and handles remarkably now.  thanks, Charles

Common things are common and this isn't one of those things. Hard to find stuff that is so rare no one has ever seen it. Odds are the sub frame was replaced and it was never adjusted back to where it came apart.

[perry113]

I just replaced the idler arm bushing on my friend's 63 230SL. The real issue was not so much the bushing as it was a corroded idler arm pin.
I used a long 1/2 14 mm socket and inserted in the top side and then used the longest 1/2 socket extension I had and used it as a tap to remove old bushing.
Putting the new bushing and seal in was really tricky without having the right tool to have. I was able to used washers and round wood pegs as an insulator and an appropriate sized C clamp and with patience and time I got it in. Getting it started and the last 1/4 inch in was the trickiest.
I would like to find the right tool for inserting the bushing in.
Can anyone provide any leads or pictures of the tool they use?
Many Thanks
Peter

[Charles 230SL]

I followed Dan's method - a bolt with washers between the head and bushing worked great. Tightening the nut pulled the new bushing into place with ease.
The real bear (at least for me) was getting the seal in place – it simply wouldn’t fit into the housing.  I ended up (carefully) filing the circumference of the seal's casing to get it to fit. Really surprised me since I used an original MB idler arm kit.