Convertible Top Maintenance

[n/a]

Hello Bob,
You have the same issue that I have.  I click the back of the soft top in first and then pull hard on the front to get it into the holes.  This is easier when the weather is warm, more difficult when cold.  When stored in the boot, the soft top gets wrinkled in the back, and takes a bit of pulling to smooth it tight.  It's always been a bit of a hassle.
Best regards,
Don

quote:Originally posted by bpossel

 :?: What maintenance can be done to the frame (with the canvas on) to prevent issues?  Do the joints in the frame need to be lubed?  If so, with what to avoid staining the canvas?

Are there adjustments that can make the top work better?  For example, I have to pull the frame forward and yank it for it to reach and fall into the holes on the windshield frame.

Hints and tips are appreciated!
Thanks!
Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[Ben]

quote:If your soft top will not lift out easily and completely, it is because your mechanism is broken. A fully operating system allows one to lift the front of the softop without the rear portion to be left behind.
Don

My car had two spring loaded balls and when the rear portion is lifted these click into a locating groove. Not sure if all 113's have these, anyone?, but this is what prevents the rear section from jamming in the compartment, it should, as Don says, always lift out is you just grap the front section.

These can obviously wear and become less effective but there appears to be some adjustment there!


Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[Mike Hughes]

I had the same thought about suggesting looking at the adjustable ball-in-socket devices on the top frame.  Mine were out of adjustment(too tight!)and a minor change did wonders for the ease of furling and unfurling my top. There seemed to be a great deal of adjustment there, enough that they could be set to not engage at all.

quote:Originally posted by Ben

My car had two spring loaded balls and when the rear portion is lifted these click into a locating groove. Not sure if all 113's have these, anyone?, but this is what prevents the rear section from jamming in the compartment, it should, as Don says, always lift out is you just grap the front section.

These can obviously wear and become less effective but there appears to be some adjustment there!

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havanna Brown (408)
  Light Beige (181)
  Cream M-B Tex (121)

[Malc]

Just to throw my two pence worth in. I was told by a gentleman of the "old school" of mechanicing that you should always "store" a soft top in the "up position" this way there is less tendency for it to shrink or the windows to get creased or damaged.
Plus you can get at the frame etc.
I must admit I usually keep the MGA roof up for the winter
Malc

[Richard Madison]

As requested, here are photos of the "shoehorns" used to ease the  soft top into the compartment without cutting or shredding.

The previous soft top had cuts on the bottom edge. I found that the rubber protector which wraps around and on top of the outside edge of the compartment was missing. Previous work had left a near knife edge which cut the old top as it was lowered into the compartment.

A permanent fix would be difficult and expensive. I had read a suggestion about putting something between the top and the edge of the compartment to protect the top as it went down.

I found plastic "followers" in a ring binder used to keep the pages centered on the rings.  I put one of these between the top and the comparment edge as the top goes down and up. The top slides along the follower just as a foot goes into a tight shoe, hence "shoehorns."

Each 'follower' is about 9 or 10 inches long and about 4 inches wide. Narrower 'followers' found in smaller ring binders do not give as much protection.

Once the top is past the danger point, the shoehorns are removed. Might have to re-adjust the shoehorns as the top starts down to ensure they stay in a proper protective position.
 
These shoehorns have saved my new top from damage. I use them everytime I raise or lower the top; over two years and not a mark on the top.  The idea is not patented and no royalty payments are required...just try it if you think it will help.

First photo shows two "follower" shoehorns at rest.

Second photo shows one of the shoehorns placed between the edge and the top which is about to be lowered into the compartment.  

Richard M


Download Attachment: Shoehorns.jpg
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Download Attachment: Shoehorns2.jpg
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[Mike Hughes]

I use two heavy duty 8x8 zip-lock bags to accomplish this.  They cover over and protect a larger area of the rubber top compartment seal and just fold over the stowed top when done.

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havanna Brown (408)
  Light Beige (181)
  Cream M-B Tex (121)

[Ben]

quote:The previous soft top had cuts on the bottom edge. I found that the rubber protector which wraps around and on top of the outside edge of the compartment was missing.

........is this just the regular rubber weather seal or am I missing something else here.................again !!

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor