Replacing Steering Tie Rods, Drag Link & Cross Strut

[Mike K]

The steering on my 280SL had been somewhat sloppy, so last year I replaced the Steering Damper. Thereafter things improved, but not entirely to my satisfaction.

Today I replaced the Tie Rods, Drag Link and Cross Strut-  it's made such a difference!
As expected, I now need to get the wheel alignment done.  Despite measuring and counting the number of threads on the old Tie Rods and replicating this to the new ones, the alignment is slightly off.

Prior to tackling this job, I purchased this Gedore Ball Joint Puller for €39- : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B000UYXGCA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This tool was invaluable and it would have been just about impossible to do this job without it.

In addition, I also recommend using a fork-type Ball Joint Separator as well: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0001K9Q2C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=30TM44UYPM47O&coliid=I1GKVPHK353539.
There are some tight spaces where the Ball Joint Puller can't get into, without undoing more linkages, but where the fork will work.

I never had a fork, so I had to remove extra links in order to get the Ball Joint Puller into place, this added some frustration and about another hour to the job, which I could have avoided if I had both tools on hand.
Note: The fork will trash the rubber seals, so only use if you're going to replace the joints.

On removing the old Tie Rods and Drag Link, I found a large amount of play in the joints, it was obvious why the steering was sloppy.

With the right tools it's a straightforward job and it makes such a difference to how the car drives.

Best,
Mike

[Benz Dr.]

I've used a piece of string placed against the outside of the rear tire and then I ran it to the outside of the front tire on the same side of the car. With the steering wheel set straight ahead, the string should touch at four points across both front and rear tires. If it touches against the front tire at the front you would probably need to turn the tie rod assembly out if on the left side of the car and in if on the right side. You won't get it perfect but should be able to make it drive well enough to get to your alignment shop. I used this method recently and had each side to within 1 degree of toe in.

[Cees Klumper]

Thanks Dan, good tip. I guess a straight edge that's long enough (I have a builder's aluminum one that's 12 feet! Used for leveling wet concrete floors) would work also, instead of the wire. Point is to check how straight the front wheels are kn relation to the rears. Never thought of that trick.

[Cees Klumper]

P.s. @Mike - thanks for posting your experience, makes me want to go out and check the condition of the steering parts on my car. It passed MOT (well, Controle Technique) this summer, but still. Also been tempted for years to replace springs and shocks, and thinking of going with Bilstein heavy duty ones for the shocks.

[Mike K]

Thanks for the tip Dan. I'll give it a try, however I'll still take it to have the alignment done.

My steering wheel is only very slightly off to the left.  The car is perfectly driveable, I took it for a test drive up to 130kms- no wandering, play or steering wobble, braking with hands off the steering wheel she stops dead straight...

For anyone who hasn't done this before- it's very important to count the number of threads between the joints and the rods on the old tie rods, and to replicate this on the new tie rods before installing. This will minimise the amount of wheel alignment required and the car should be driveable.

Cees- I did all the springs, rubbers and shocks last year, I installed Bilsteins as well. I found it was much easier to do the springs with the shocks removed.

Moving off topic- on the rear I should have done the trailing arm donuts and bushings while I had the rear springs off the car.

I'll be tackling this job next week, I plan to first remove the rear springs and then sort out the trailing arm bushings and donuts. I figure it should be easier to remove and reinstall the trailing arms with the springs off the car and then compress and reinstall the springs once the arms are back in place.

Best,
Mike

[ja17]

Be careful when counting threads. Various manufacturer's parts have variations in length of the threaded part of the tie-rod end. Compare for the exactness of replacement parts first.  I use a measurement process. If time permits, I will post photos later.

[ja17]

Counting threads during tie rod replacement might not always work. Tie rod ends from various manufacturers may vary in thread length. Consider using a measurement method..........

[Mike K]

Joe as always, thank you for the valuable advice, much appreciated. I've redone everything according to your method.

I then finished up by trying Dan's method of running a string along the sides of the rear and front tyres. The string touched 3 of 4 sides (all except for the front part of the front tyre, it was slightly out), I loosened & turned/adjusted the tie rod by hand until the front tyre was realigned and the string touched all 4 tyre sides. 

Between the 2 methods I'm pleased to report that all's lined up and she drives/steers totally straight.
 
Best,
Mike