Author Topic: Rear Shock Installation  (Read 2860 times)

Harry

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Rear Shock Installation
« on: November 09, 2016, 18:16:01 »
1966 230SL, New Bilsteins
My question is how tight do you need to tighten the nuts at the top of the shocks (inside the trunk)?  You have the 9mm (I think) flat on the shock end and the large (17mm or so) nut.  When tightening, you are actually compressing the rubber between the washers - providing some pre-compression.  I tightened mine until I reached a point where the rubber doughnut couldn't be turned by hand and the wrench was probably just beyond a good "snug" tight.  What's the correct tightness?
Thanks,
Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

Mike K

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Re: Rear Shock Installation
« Reply #1 on: November 10, 2016, 11:17:55 »
Harry,
That sounds right. I used the same method/measure to tighten my shocks when I replaced them.

Best,
Mike
Feb. 1971 Mercedes 280SL Auto  LHD (Last of W113 Series)
Aug. 1989 Mercedes R107 300SL RHD (Last of R107 Series)
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Benz Dr.

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Re: Rear Shock Installation
« Reply #2 on: November 10, 2016, 15:59:58 »
I tighten them until the nut won't turn any more. Make sure the dished washer is facing upwards. I see a lot of them facing down which will tend to bind up movement as the shock is doing its work.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

ja17

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Re: Rear Shock Installation
« Reply #3 on: November 10, 2016, 16:00:29 »
Just tighten them until the nut bottoms-out. The shaft threads stop when the rubber compresses to the correct amount.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
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Harry

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Re: Rear Shock Installation
« Reply #4 on: November 10, 2016, 17:18:54 »
Thanks very much!
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic