Is it the multifunction column switch?

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

Here is where it is different from W113, at least on my 67' W111. It is not pins 5 and 8 but 9 and 10. The male connector is missing only one pin the 10. That's where you place the pin with the WHT/PPL and it goes to the socket in the female connector #10. Then I suggest that you fish the RED/WHT/BLU wire somewhere in the harness rather than double up (everything is so tight that you risk breaking it) splice it to a socket in female connector #9.
I did hook up everything yesterday and everything works now. Now I have to make a bracket to hold the emergency switch.
BTW the pins and the sockets are in the mail with some more info.

[wwheeler]

Ok. I will go back and edit my earlier post to add correct info for the W111. I didn't totally understand to connecting points for the red wire. So to conclude:

- #10 pin to #10 socket (white /violet tracer)
- #9 socket to #___9___? pin? (red/white/blue)

Thanks again.

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

#9 socket goes to #9 pin or splice it to the RED/WHT/BLU wire in the harness to avoid crowding in that connector. You will see all this when you open the connectors.

[wwheeler]

OK it is all done and changes in previous posts are made. I just wanted to make sure.

Thanks!

[wwheeler]

I finally got the guts to go in and rip out the sub-harness. And of course it is different!

My W111 280SE pins and sockets are all 4mm for one. Bigger than the 3mm ones Radu had. The pins are solid posts BTW and not split. The other and most important is that all 14 pins are there going to the bulkhead and only one socket (#9) is missing on the connector going to the multifunction switch. I already have the white/violet wire on #10 pin going to #10 socket.

The#9 socket has a blue with red/white tracer and that goes to the hazard socket.

Could it be as easy as adding the #9 socket and connecting a wire to that to the Blue - red/white tracer wire from #9 pin?

Thanks!


 

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

Hello Wallace,
I guess there are 2 ways to skin this cat (deleting the FTP) and it is easier to remove only the power coming from the battery to the switch which is the RED/WHT/BLU and leave the wire going to the load WHT/PPL there.
One detail (maybe too detail) but I would make sure it is RED/WHT/BLU and not BLU/RED/WHT. Germans are very good at sticking to standards and although I am almost sure there is no BLU/RED/WHT going to the multifunction switch I would just double check. The wire's jacket is red so if you scrape the white or the blue there should be red. Funny, as I am writing I see on my desk a piece left over from that wire (pic). It appears that there are 2 sets of WHT/BLU stripes diametrically opposed on the wire (splitting hairs??).
Anyway if you need 4 mm pins or sockets let me know I have a lot of those.

[Tyler S]

Wallace, I would check the load side connections with a jumper wire with the column switch disconnected just to be sure the FTP comes on. Then check the opposite column "switch" side for continuity with an ohm meter while you pull the stock for FTP.
Just to be sure. If somthing is amiss you may cook the column switch contacts.

[wwheeler]

Radu,
I just looked again and it is definitely a blue casing with white and red tracers. And I did a continuity test and it is the same wire going to the hazard switch connector. There is no red with tracers like yours. Yes, mine seems simpler and not sure why they went to added work of removing the #10 connections on yours?  I have sockets and think they are 4mm and will check and thanks for the offer.

Tyler,
Yes, I was thinking it is too risky just to plug it in and was thinking how to test. I am afraid your terminology is above my level and I don't want to screw this up. So with the harness out:
1) I would check the #9 position on the connector coming from the bulkhead for 12 V power. #10 should be the return from the switch going to the high beam?
2) Then do a continuity check on the switch harness connector between (#9 and#10) while pulling back on the stalk (FTP).
3) If that is good then maybe run a 12 V jumper to the #9 switch harness connector and see if the FTP works? Is #9 or #10 on the load side of the FTP switch? My thinking is that #10 Is the load side and #9 is the line side and not sure the jumper would do anything on #9 alone? Seems like you would also need a jumper on #10 from the switch side to bulkhead connector for the FTP to work?

Thanks.

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

To clarify:
1) Prior to installing the BLU/RED/WHT wire you will have 12V on the bulkhead connector not on the subharness connector that mates to it.
2) Yes.
3) Yes. #10 is the load side and #9 is the power side. If the jumper has 12V in it the lights will be on when you touch the #9. Or with  the subharness connected except the multifunction connector jump #9 to #10 in the multifunction connector (after wiring in the BLU/RED/WHT #9).
Sorry Tyler for answering your questions please step in if I made a mistake.
It is surprising about your different colors, my colors are identical to the colors on the 280 in the technical bulletin here.

[wwheeler]

OK thanks. That makes sense and just took me a bit of time to sort it out in my head. Not sure why the #10 is wired and why the wire color is different on my early 280SE from yours.

After the test, I may try to wire the new #9 socket from the switch connector to the socket on the hazard connector. That would require soldering two wires on one socket and should be doable. That would avoid a splice in the harness. I will make sure there is enough room first though.

With Mercedes, I have come to expect changes with everything, mechanical, electrical you name it even within the same model year. The worst is possibly my 1960 coupe and things were changing on that car by the hour. 

[wwheeler]

OK, here is a thought thinking outside the box. What if I eliminate the sub harness altogether? Yes, the hazards would not work, but then no wire alterations are needed for FTP.

I drive this car only on "Sunday drives" in nice weather and frankly have never used the hazards. In fact, they do not work now because I have LED bulbs for the turn signals and installed an electronic flasher for that to work. The only way to get the hazards to work with LED bulbs is to install resistors at each bulb and I didn't want that. I have no inspection because the car is an antique w/ the driving restrictions.

I will certainly keep the harness and can always plug it back in to return it to stock. Is this too good to be true?

[66andBlue]

... The only way to get the hazards to work with LED bulbs is to install resistors at each bulb and I didn't want that.   ...

Hi Wallace,
this is not quite correct, there is more than one way to skin a {insert favorite object} 
See: https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/FlasherRelay   - scan down to the end.

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

I drove without the hazard subharness for 2 years. We are driving 50 year old cars which are "more" prone to problems. Mine used to stall in the middle of the road when I had the fuel tank issue and I had to roll down the window manually to wave at the people behind me to pass. Drivers now are scared to pass on 2 way streets. Oh, the big wide Texas roads, here the roads were built by the pilgrims in the 1600's and not much changed since.
So I put the hazards back on. Actually you can simulate the FTP by switching to high and back, it's just not self detente. I put resistors on my front LED flashers.

[wwheeler]

Alfred,
I thought the hazard switch used its own internal circuitry? I have the electronic flasher for the turn signals now and works just fine. I just don't see how that could affect the hazards as it has its own sub harness for the US?


I agree no hazards are a risk, but the roads here as you say are wide especially the ones I drive on. And I almost never go on a freeway anymore. Too many rock chips! So in my environment, maybe an option. But that is a point and maybe should have a "safety triangle" or such in my trunk just in case.

[Tyler S]

Another difference between the DIP and  FTP is the FTP works without the key or headlights being switched on

[wwheeler]

That is the reason I am wanting the feature is so when some lunkhead pulls a stupid move in front of me, I can signal him. Yes, we have plenty of bad drivers to go around here to.

[wwheeler]

The dirty deed is done. The attached picture is my sub-harness that is now stored away for safe keeping. I also took a picture of the sub-harness bracket that attaches to the standard under dash metal bracket. Of course it is all documented how to put it back should I need it again.

Note: that the socket connector (bottom/left) has a special snap attachment on its cover and fits into the "squarish" hole in the metal bracket. That is what holds it to the bracket. I was able to greatly clean up the mess under dash that the sub harness made. It was a clever modification by Mercedes and one that can be reversed quite easily. So now the hazard switch is back in the dash but is non-functional. And most important - the Flash to Pass feature works like a charm. If I ever rewire the car, I will most certainly reinstall the sub-harness and include the changes documented here on this thread.

Thanks for all of the help and has been a great learning experience!