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[njnbk74]

Hi guy, First let me say thanks for reading my post. I own a restoration shop in New Jersey that specializes in muscle cars and hot rods. We purchased a collection and in the collection was a 1964 230 SL. The car was kept in a heated garage parked over 10 years ago. We are questioning if the market is strong enough to support a restoration or is it better to sell the car as a driver? Also this car appears to be a European market car, headlights are euro spec, and all gauges are in metric and kilometers. Is there a stronger market for euro cars than us market cars. The car is currently not running but feel very confident it could be running in a few hours at most. So I guess what I am asking is that as a nice driver  as compared to a fell restoration or even a new paint, interior and top ? Thanks again guys for the info in advance, Also is there any way to tell history of the car like Jaguars heritage certificate ?

[njnbk74]

[njnbk74]

[njnbk74]

[njnbk74]

[Shvegel]

The car shows a lot of tell tale signs of being rusty.  Of particular interest is where the inner fender on the right at the rear appears to be welded under the undercoat.  There is a thread here of someone who dove into exactly what you are facing and it turned on him badly.  To his credit he has stuck with it and is doing an admirable job of it.

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=21397.0

Here is how to do a quick check of the car:
the factory undercoating is an off white that over time turns to a dark brown almost black color.  If the car has the same black tar as under the hood it probably has had floor work.  The main areas of rust are the front and rear of the rocker panels (Sills),  the frame rail just behind the sill and the trunk floor on the left side.  Under the hood there was no undercoating so that was done to cover up work or to tidy up after a color change where the engine bay was the original color and black was a better look.  The best gauge I have found is to reach up inside the front wheel well on the inner side there is a rectangular section sheet metal channel running fore and aft.  Reach up to the top and feel for rust holes.  This spot is easy to miss and if it is rotten there it is probably rotten everywhere.

As far as mechanicals if it turns over it is probably worth getting running.  The fuel system is your biggest hurdle but if you have a decent mechanic the people here can talk you through that.  DO NOT HOOK A BATTERY UP AND TRY TO JUST CRANK IT OVER WITHOUT VERIFYING THAT THE ELECTRICAL FUEL PUMP UNDER THE CAR IS RUNNING.  If it is stuck it will burn up and new ones are $1600.  If the spare tire is on a post on the right side of the trunk and not vertical new fuel tanks are available from a company called Dansk for about $400.  I suggest buying one as the inside of the tank is fairly complex and hard to get properly clean.  There is a pretty good chance the injection pump will be gummed up but is can be unstuck usually on the car.

You can get a copy of the Data Card which lists colors, engine number etc from the Mercedes Classic center.  The instructions are in our Technical manual section.

Having flipped more than a few cars in my youth I would get it running( if it isn't stuck) and send it on it's way.

Here is the rail in the fender well.

 

[tom.hanson]

other than that terrible steering wheel, it looks like a decent driver. I'd flip it.

[njnbk74]

 Thanks for the advice check those square to no rust or perforation at all.  Found spots in the corners of the floors right where they start going up towards the firewall.  Areas around the headlights are perfect shape .  The fuel tank obviously is going to need addressing, pulled it today to send out to have a boiled and cleaned, need to order a fuel sending unit and a new filter for the bottom.  The fuel pump before I put power to it will I hear it running or is it quiet? Looks very new but unfortunately have no paperwork showing it was replaced...  I would I go about servicing this ... thanks again Nathan

[cfm65@me.com]

Hi Nathan,
The fuel pump emits a normal fuel pump audible buzz and not a tick-tick noise.
You also mention a fuel filter, I assume you are talking about an inline filter close to the fuel pump? If so,  this is not standard, but suppose it cant do any harm. However the original fuel filter lives below the engine dip stick in a canister similar to the oil filter canister and also has a cartridge, similar to an oil filter.
Regards
Chris

[Jonny B]

Just as a note on the fuel filter(s) - There are three of them. The large one inside the engine bay by the fuel injection pump, an in-line filter in the pump and a brass/plastic filter inside the tank on the fuel pick-up line.

[cfm65@me.com]

Thanks Jonny,
I was not aware of the two in the back. Much appreciated.
Regards
Chris

[njnbk74]

Hey guy thanks for all the info, rebuilt the pump pretty easy except bottom o ring was tight. Sent the tank out to be boiled and sealed. Was able to fire the car today for the first time..... Very happy no noises no smoke and a very smooth.... Need to work on the clutch next appears to be locked up could be cylinder or slave cylinder... Any thoughts?