Author Topic: Mercedes OEM Exhaust Installation  (Read 3731 times)

Nate

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Mercedes OEM Exhaust Installation
« on: October 14, 2012, 04:34:21 »
Any suggestions or best practices for fabricating the Eberspacher (sp) exhaust system? I'm having the work done by a competent muffler shop but wanted to see if there are any ways to install the brackets in such a way that the bolts aren't showing, etc.

Cheers,

Nate
1971 280SL
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Cees Klumper

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Re: Mercedes OEM Exhaust Installation
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2012, 07:15:51 »
I believe that the factory method for installing was to weld all sections together, ie no brackets. The way to do this is to fit the system such that it routes properly first, tack weld to fixate the connecting points, remove from the car to properly weld all connections, and finally install.
I installed my stainless system with clamps though, and it's pretty straightforward, so your shop should have no difficulty if they put their mind to it.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
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KenBourque

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Re: Mercedes OEM Exhaust
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2017, 01:50:32 »
I currently have a Gillette muffler supplied by Mercedes.  It's much noiser than the Eberspacher that was OEM.  Do you know of complaints about noisy mufflers and which are the quietest brands?

gorgoo

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Re: Mercedes OEM Exhaust Installation
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2017, 19:31:43 »
Hello,

I installed the original system some months ago, welded and so on. It's quite an involved task but at least engine note is fine and it does not foul the bodywork.

I would give two advices:
- install the complete system, from the down pipe to the tail pipes, with their rubber mountings, and block the complete line in location using (for example) wooden blocks every where the line is close to the bodywork so to secure a minimum clearance after welding. The pal who helped me in this job joked at me saying he had never seen before an exhaust with wooden mountings...
- when welding, do not only spot weld to secure the location: weld a s much as you can get access at. Because when you'll remove the complete thing for final welding, that will be a 3m long steel structure, that will bend. So you need weldings already stiff enough to withstand the dismantling witouht loosing the geometry. If a spotweld breaks before welding, the only option is to bring the complete thing back in place and start again.

By the way, the best place to do that is below a 2 posts lift so to have enough space below the car for removing/intalling the complete line. If you're using stands, use big ones, the rear bumper should be at least 1m above ground.
Starter motor has to be removed before installing the exhaust.

Regards,
Didier