Glove Box - All Was Said, But One More Word - MB Spring and Forks Do Not Fit

[Pawel66]

Just had a go over my glove box, I removed it as I wanted to plug in the Koenigs Jack 3,5 adapter, so once I was there - the glove box never closed properly and I thought of installing a longer wire and a plug for map reading lamp etc. - I fixed all the small things I needed to fix.

I wanted to replace the spring and the two forks. I bought all 3 pieces from Mercedes (I had some strange spring and some "foreign" forks). To my surprise, the new forks from MB did not fit in the new spring from MB. The spring is just too tight for them, they cannot move inside, they get stuck as they are made of too thick metal sheet or the spring is too small... I had to use the thinner forks I had before or waste lots of time for grinding the original forks.

Just to warn you.

Obviously I installed the anti-kinking arrangement as described in the Tech Manual. I am sure if there is any chance the spring starts kinking, mine would start kinking tomorrow for sure.

[doitwright]

Your example is like what Gernold pointed out during the last PUB. Even parts from Mercedes are not the same as they used to be. He recommended that whenever possible it is better to restore and reuse than buy new.

[Pawel66]

What is nice about these cars is that usually the parts fit...
I am not very experienced, but did a couple of things - this is the first time I came across parts from MB that do not fit together.

[dirkbalter]

Hi Pawel,
My fork and spring look like shown on the picture. One of my forks is lost due to the pin that is attached to the glove box cover being broken. I have to replace at least one fork and believe I have to buy a matching set. (2 forks and spring) I was looking at the sls assembly and it looks different. Sls sells the set for around 18 Euros. May I ask what the MB price was? Our technical manual talks about making them yourself out of aluminum.

[rwh]

Hi Pawel,
I had the same problem. I used a file to thin down the new forks so they fit into the springs and moved freely.  Works fine now.

RWH

[Pawel66]

Dirk, sure:
A1866890033, guides PLN 52 per piece = PLN104 for two pieces
A1869932001, spring PLN 48
Total (net, no VAT) = PLN 152, which is approx $43.

Interesting what would be the price in the US...

This, I think, is not a Pagoda set. The forks are different. The spring on the picture seems short. The spring is just a bit shorter than two forks lenght (ca 10cm). The broken pin is probably the biggest issue...

I wanted it quickly, so I bought from Mercedes. For SLS in Europe shipment is minimum EUR 12 if I remember correctly. To the US it may be more. You get a big box with tiny parts in it - quite funny... So 18+12=30EUR and 3-4 days (or God knows how many days in Xmas time), vs. MB $43 and 72hrs, between Xmas and New Year.

Making them fit is quite possible as you see in RWH post.
I installed the 5cm pipe (as per Tech Manual) to prevent spring from kinking as I was there.

[wwheeler]

I have similar forks on my W128 glove box. New MB forks and springs didn't fit. I lightly ground radius' on two opposed edges of the forks as they pass through the spring. I did not make the thickness of the fork thinner, but rounded the edges to match the shape of the round spring. They fit perfectly now.

[Pawel66]

Just maybe final word. Completely useless for those experienced ones, but perhaps helpful for amateur weekend mechanics like me.

On the glove box door alignment. We have the means of adjustment there of alignment of the door. The holes in the hinge that slides between the two sheets of the slot in the door are much bigger than the screws. You can move the door within the limits of the holes (or biiger if you use a file) to align it with the rest of the glove box.

The Tech manual suggests to align the door, but does not say how.

Even though I probably missed it somewhere on this forum, I felt like I discovered America when I realized it - because I needed to move my door up a bit...

[Garry]

Pawel,


As you said, these pieces of information are not in the Tech Manual and should be.  They need to be added to the Manual by the members, such as yourself, when you see it missing but know the answer, rather than posted here so then the next person looks at the Tech Manual will get the answers rather than having to scan through many posts following a search on the Forum.


Garry
Membership Administrator

[Pawel66]

Garry, thank you! I did not know I can add things to the Tech Manual. Also: I am not sure if I am experienced enough to add things there responsibly...

If everybody starts adding things there, it might end up in a mess...

I added this comment as I sort of got the blessing from you that it makes sense.

[Garry]

Pawel,


All Full Members can add to the Tech Manual.  If you are a bit unsure how, then have a good read of the instructions and there is the sand box to practice in before going live with the manual.


We actually rely on our members adding to the Manual in the long term as there are heaps of areas that have not been filled in yet.


Garry

[Pawel66]

Ok thank you!

[Mike K]

Hi Pawel,
For what it's worth I had exactly the same issue with the glove box spring & forks.
The parts supplied by Mercedes didn't work- the new forks were too big for the new spring- I ended up using the new spring with the old forks and all worked well.

Regards,
Mike

[Pawel66]

I did the same thing! I also fitted the tube so that the spring does not kink.

As one of the fellow members mentioned - it is quite easy to file down the edges of the MB forks, make them round - then they fit.

To me the biggest "discovery" (watch the more exprirenced laugh here) was the glove box door adjustment possibility. And - for the future dismantling I did the socket, plug and longer wire for the lamp.

[wwheeler]

Grinding down the sharp outer edges of the forks has another advantage other than just the fit. Unground, the sharp fork edges can wear grooves in the ID of the spring creating stress points for the spring to fail.

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

I have a slightly off topic question.

I’m wondering if it is easy to remove and reinstall the glove box door? Are there any special precautions one has to take?

I’m asking since it is my plan to take the glove box door with me to France for the Euro 2018 Event. Garry and I are planning to take a trip after the event to Les Ateliers Paul Bracq in Bordeaux. I like to ask Paul to autograph my glove box door.

Is there something in our Tech Manual I can follow in order not to run into alignment problems of the door on reassembly?

Thanks in advance,

Dieter

[Pawel66]

Dieter,

My experience: it is always good to look at Tech Manual  . Lot's of info on forum too.

As the door is riveted to the rest of the glovebox with two rivets, you need to remove the whole glove box and then unscrew the door or travel to France with the whole glovebox using it as e.g. lunchbox.

To remove the glovebox: mask the dash and leather around with the painters tape not to scratch anything (do not leave the tape stuck to car - it may leave marks), unscrew, I think, 6 screws (4 bottom, 2 top) and probably the switch. Then depending on how long wire you have for the lamp - either you can remove the glovebox and then disconnect the wire inside the dash (I did not try to undo the lamp, and it may be easier way) or dive under dash to disconnect it.

Once you have the box out, you would need to disconnect the forks and spring and unscrew the 4 screws that hold the door to the hinge.

Alternative: dive under dash, disconnect the cable (or undo the lamp - I have not tried this, was afraid to scratch the paint on the outside of the door), disconnect the forks and springs, unscrew the 4 screws that hold the door to the hinge and while removing door, find your way out for the closing bent rod through the oval rosette out.

I think the first way is the proper way, actually...

On re-assembly I would be careful when tightening the 4 screws that hold the door to the hinge - on some other part -when I did it too tight the paint cracked and came off. Since then I put a bit of some lubricant under the screw head in similar situations, but I do not know if it is a good practice.

I think you would need to adjust the door - but then the holes in the hinge are much larger than screws diameter, which gives you some play to set the door. Be careful not to scratch the dash and leather around when adjusting/installing- use painters tape to mask them again. Or some thick static foil maybe.

I have not experienced adjustment issues if the box was once fit in its place... but maybe others have.

[Garry]

The other question you need to decide Dieter, is whether you want a signature on the inside or the outside of the door   

[Pawel66]

Trunk lid perhaps? 

[Jonny B]

The trunk lid would certainly be more fun to take through customs....

Garry, did you do anything to preserve the signature?

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

ThankYou Pawel for the excellent tips I also got a PM from Walter with similar guidance. I think I will figure it out based upon both your excellent tips.

As for the trunk lid I don't think so. I think we will get the car that Garry and I will be driving signed by Paul B.

Garry, I might just get the inside signed that be cool too.

Jonny, you are quite right, with the problems I have getting thru Customs the trunk lid stays home

Thank you all for anwsering my question no additional help needed.

Dieter