Ignition stuck

[ricrose]

After years of very few problems we are heading off for a few weeks - so I thought I would use the 230sl for the day.
I put the key in the ignition and and it wouldn’t turn to #1. I could feel that the key was in correctly as it moved a little - but not enough to get to #1.
My instinct would be to puff in some graphite, remove the radio delete plate and tap the lock cylinder, if I could reach it, to see if I could release it. I don’t want to rush it so I thought I would ask the brains trust!
Also a PO has changed the barrel to a 280 (it has a double sided key) and removed the chrome trim.
Any suggestions on how I should proceed?

[Garry]

Richard,


One of the most common stuck key problems comes from these steering locks jamming with the steering wheel and the wheel must be wobbled back and forth quite hard to release the locking pin.  I would try that first.


Garry

[ricrose]

Thanks Garry
I should have mentioned that the steering wheel is not locked. This one really has me puzzled - the BBB is of no help and I just know I will be playing the scenarios over in my head over the next couple of weeks!

[Pawel66]

If I may throw in my 2 cents as I have some experience with stuck ignition keys...

Please go to Technical Manual - you have some clues there for 230SL.

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Interior/Locks#IgnitionKeyRemoval
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/IgnitionSwitch

If I were in your shoes, once I get the key unstuck, I would take the tumbler out and at least clean it, but better refurbish it in a good shop. Some lubrication will help for some time (just make sure you use dedicated lubricant for locks that does not attract and accumulate dust), but it often happens - if it gets stuck once it will sooner or later stick for good. And then it is getting very unpleasant...

For quick lubrication if you do not have dedicated lubricant, take a soft pencil and rub its graphite core against the key cuts on all sides.

[ejboyd5]

Also a PO has changed the barrel to a 280 (it has a double sided key) and removed the chrome trim. Any suggestions on how I should proceed?

Turn the key over and try again.

[ricrose]

Thanks for all the support and encouragement as well as hard won experience on this one.
I went to a locksmith this morning and discussed it with him - he strongly suggested I didn’t use graphite but rather something that would penetrate the barrel better and sold me a small can of Inox. He said with the nozzle it comes out under a lot of pressure and would really coat the barrel.
Got home - two squirts and I can start the car again!
Now I haven’t taken the key out again, but have disconnected the battery and will take everything apart as per the BBB in a couple of weeks.
Again - thanks Guys.

[Pawel66]

Of course the graphit is a quick fix only.

Just be careful - after initial success it may stick again if you leave it unattended.

Happy you got it working!

[Tyler S]

Because this is a 280 style ignition lock, the tumbler can be removed relatively easily from the barrel without removing the entire lock assembly from the car. Suggest removal and inspection of the wafers for damage or debris.

[Pawel66]

Tyler, you might want to send some procedure for 280SL, we have the one for 230SL only, if you were so kind. These are priceless on the rainy day...

[Tyler S]

Here ya go. This works for ignitions with the double sided key, Including 250sl's post vin# 2980. NOTE: this procedure will not work if you are unable to turn the key in your ignition. I suggest that anyone with a sticking tumbler take care of it now or you will be forever locked out of any attempt at repair and the entire ignition lock will need to be removed. Not a fun task.

First remove the outer aluminum escuchen by gently prying it off. The tabs behind will straighten out. (Photos 1 & 2)(Don't worry you can get it back in during reassembly by installing it before the lock cap and use a pick to bend the tabs back in place)

Next insert the key and turn to position 1. (photo 3)

Remove the key by slightly wiggling and pulling. This is detented so it takes a little more pull than usual. (photo 4)

Pull the chrome locking cap out. You can use a pick to get it started (photos 5 & 6))

With a pick, Depress the small detent pin on the left side of the ignition housing being sure to fully engage and hold it depressed. (Photos 7 & 8 )

With your spare hand, Grab the tumbler face with your finger nails or a second pick. (Photo 9)

Remove the tumbler. Notice the spring loaded detent pin on the left (Photo 10)

You can now disassemble, clean and inspect the tumbler and wafers by removing the snap ring. I suggest inserting the key during this to prevent everything from falling out. Installation is reverse of removal. ALWAYS reinstall the tumbler with it set to position 1 and do not disturb the inner housing cam. The aluminum escuchen should be reinstalled before the chrome locking cap so you can get behind it with a pick to bend the ears back in place.

[Tyler S]

more pics

[Tyler S]

last 2

[ricrose]

This is PERFECT thanks. I really wasn’t looking forward to taking it all apart.
This forum never fails to deliver.
Thanks Tyler. 

[WRe]

Hi Tyler,
this is really great and very helpful! If you allow I would translate it for the German Pagoda Forum (pagodentreff.de) incl. pics.
Thanks!
...WRe

[Pawel66]

Thank you so much! You do not know how much frustration and $$$ you saved for a lot of people!

I had a case in one of my 463. The tumbler got stuck just once, I freed it and started planning on removing it. But then it got stuck before I did that. It got stuck in "0" position, with steering lock engaged. It ended up in drilling out the bolts of the steeringlock - not fun, really.

[Tyler S]

Thanks Guys.
WRe, if you would like to post on the German site is fine by me. Just be sure to reference where the original post came from to give the sl113 site credit. I will be posting the procedure in the tech manual shortly.