Trailing Arm Bushings

[bpossel]

Hello All,

Before I start to replace the rear trailing arm bushings, I wanted to check with those that have done this job on their cars....

How difficult is this job?  Any advice before I start?

Have a nice weekend!
Bob



bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[mdsalemi]

Bob,

This was but one minor project in the grand scheme of replacing all that 35 year old rubber when my car was restored...since I didn't actually do the work myself I can't tell you how difficult it is (i.e. I don't know how many curse words were uttered or knuckles skinned); however I can tell you it is a whole lot easier when the rear suspension is not mounted in the car.  A suspension rework is oh so much easier when done on a bench in bright light then on your back underneath a car:

Download Attachment: Rebuilt Rear Suspension + Subframe.jpg
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My two recommendations are one, to examine carefully the trailing arms before refitting: one of mine was cracked on the inside bearing surface.  We located a used one from Miller's before the whole thing was reassembled.  Two, if you are doing a "restoration" as opposed to just a repair, of course this is a good time to have the suspension parts powder coated (preferable) or painted at least to protect them for the next generation!

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[George Davis]

Bob,

experience has been somewhat mixed.  I couldn't budge the big bolts that hold the torque arms to the axle to save my life, so took it to a shop and had it done.  They needed a long pipe cheater and a big guy putting all his weight on it to break the bolts loose.

Other guys here and elsewhere have not had this kind of trouble, the bolts come out nicely and the job is fairly easy.  Just the luck of the draw, I guess.

My suggestion is to first see if you can loosen all four of the bolts.  If you can, great, proceed.

When you reassemble, you'll need something to pilot the donut bushings at the front of the arms onto their mounts on the underside of the chassis.  The book shows a tapered pilot that screws onto the stud; I believe Cees used a short piece of pipe about the same diameter as the mounting boss.

I've found that two jacks are useful for reassembly.  One jack is always in the wrong place, having two lets you switch them around.

Good luck, and be careful!



George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[jsaylor]

Bob,

Just did mine.  The large nuts were the biggest problem, they are thin and hard to get a good grip on w/ wrench.  I had the advantage of removing the entire rear end, much easier to work on.   The added advantage is the ability to repaint the entire unit.  I used PPG black epoxy primer, very tough and looks great.  I posted a couple photos the other day.  I'm reinstalling the rear end this Sat.

Good luck



bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
[/quote]

Jim Saylor
Kauai, Hawaii
'65 230SL

[bpossel]

Thanks Jim, George and Michael!

Great comments and advice.  I think I will drive the rear end up on my ramps 1st.  Then see if I can loosen the large nuts.  If I can, then retighten, drive off the ramps, and jack the car up.  The front part of the trailing arms have been loose before when I replaced my rear spring pads a few months ago, so they should be easy...

I assume that I need to jack one side up at a time (complete one side, then the other), similar procedure to when I replaced my spring rubbers?

If any one has any add'l advice, please jump in.

Thanks again!
Bob



bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[bpossel]

Another question...

Please refer to the attached photo.  I took this prior to installing my new gas tank...

It looks like the nut on the trailing arm has a safety clip bent over the nut.  Is this correct?  If so, do I need to buy a new one before I start this work?  Or simply bend out of the way and then rebend over the nut when finished?

Comments?

B.

Download Attachment: trailing-arm.jpg
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bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Bob,

I was able to bend the safety clip and reuse it just fine.  

The trailing arms are on very tight. I think some sort of pneumatic socket is needed to remove the nuts. I used a 35mm socket. I had the file the nuts every so to get the socket to fit. For the outside bolt you need  to be a very shallow socket. The lower shock absorber bracket would not permit me to use the socket driver. I didn't have one so I ended up putting a pipe wrench with a cheater bar on the socket to remove this nut.  

Removing the clip to release the old bushing can be done using a work bench vise and a home made spacer.  Let me know if you need any help.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[bpossel]

Sorry to bring this one to the top again....

Can I raise the rear of the car with the floor jack under the differential?  

When I replaced the rear spring rubbers last Fall, I placed the jack in front of the trailing arms, but in this position, the jack was in my way and hindered the process.

Suggestions?

Thank you!
Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[George Des]

You'll have to make up a mandrel to compress the trailing arm rubbers so that you can put on the wire circlips. I made one out of a 36mm socket with a cutout made with a Dremel moto-tool. The cutout allows you to insert the circlip onto the steel insert. These are the rubber items on the axle end of the trailing arms