Author Topic: Subframe Mounts Continued  (Read 2114 times)

Harry

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Subframe Mounts Continued
« on: June 19, 2019, 01:00:43 »
I am getting back to this job and have some follow up.  Recall that my engine and tranny are out of the car, so I have the benefit of good access.
Tonight I removed the center bolt on the right side and was going to lower the frame to remove the mount on that side.  But it would not come down far enough.
I am assuming that I need to fully free the subframe, I.e. disconnect the torsion bar, the alignment bracket (between the torsion bar frame mount and the subframe) and the brake line?
I also noticed that the subframe has begun to rotate back such that the 4 holes on top are closer to the firewall.  So I’m concerned that when I fully free the subframe on this side, it will really want to rotate.
Wheat is the correct approach, please?
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

ja17

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2019, 03:55:36 »
Yes release the torsion bar for more access. It may also help to disconnect the sub-frame stiffener strut going to the frame.  I use two threaded studs temporarily to keep the mount in alignment while I install and tighten the center bolt. Once the center bolt is tightened you can drop the steel limit plate over the studs. Next install two small hex bolts, remove the studs and install the last two small hex bolts.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
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1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Harry

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2019, 16:37:49 »
Joe - the sub-frame stiffener strut is what I am referring to as the "alignment bracket" - right?  The thin rectangular plate on the front of the frame that ties in to the same point as where the torsion bar is held to the frame?  Looks like 2 each 10mm bolts at the subframe?  What is the torque that you tighten the center bolt to?

If I completely undo one side, will the other side still have enough rigidity to hold the sub-frame from rotating to a bad position?

Thanks!
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

ja17

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2019, 21:00:30 »
I was referring to the strut behind the right front wheel which goes between the frame and the subframe, next to the steering shock.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Harry

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2019, 21:53:45 »
OK.  I disconnected that to remove the engine.  The sub frame is held by the mounts, shocked, torsion bar, the link you’re pointing out and the 2 plates I was describing - right?
If I disconnect one side and leave the other attached, will it lower enough to R/R the free side without damaging the other?
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

Benz Dr.

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2019, 23:15:07 »
This should be a simple job. It looks straight forward but it isn't.

One side will go in well enough but the other side won't. I've had to use a come-along to pull the sub frame into position so I could get the small screws started on the mount. The whole sub frame is under a bit of tension and it's not as easy to get it lined up as it looks.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Harry

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Re: Subframe Mounts Continued
« Reply #6 on: June 20, 2019, 00:26:25 »
Here is a photo of what I think remains to free the SF on one side.  The 2 large nuts (one over what appears to be an eccentric stud) will release the torsion bar on that side, and the SF.  Then I should be able to lower that side and R/R the mount.  I thought that I would reattach that side before proceeding to the other because I'm afraid of the SF falling or moving if both are released together although the other SF mount is attached.
Thoughts?
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic