How to replace the "door brake" plastic ring roller ?

[yves]

I have the plastic roller of the door nearly destroyed see below ….  !and Wonder if i must take out of the door the axe  which hold the teflon ring because this one seems to be fitted with a press as a rivet at the bootom end ?
Any advice will be appreciated   

[mbzse]

I notice there is paint in your grease fittings on the door hinges.
Perhaps useful to look at this thread:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=25154.msg179846#msg179846

[yves]

You mean there :

[yves]

Thank's a lot MBZE ….    i'll see that ASAP if i can buy  the right  grease  gun

[FGN59]

Hello Yves,

Since we have sisters cars, of almost the same age, we seem to be going through a lot of the same issues within a few weeks of each other.

I replaced the roller on the passenger door of my car last January. I didn't take pictures, but this is what I did (and bear in mind that I don't have a lot of tools, nor the know-how to use them, so I just try to do simple stuff, with energy and goodwill):

- it helped that I also needed to renovate the window gliders on both sides: the windows would wobble in their tracks, with the tops 'popping out' several millimetres when driving fast, staying out of their grooves when I closed the doors, and rattling and shaking when driving; the driver side was worse, but both needed to be overhauled (which I did, but this is outside the purpose of this post)
- as a result of this, I had to remove the inside door panels (you will find ample instructions for this both in the Tech Manual and in the posts in the forum)
- when you have the inside of the door bare and available:   
- remove the bolts that fasten the part that holds the roller to the door so you can work on it (two bolts, 17mm wrench in memory serves me well)
- I used a rotating electric grinder ('disqueuse' in French) with a light touch to grind away the bottom of the rivet that holds the roller and replaced it with a new roller/rivet (purchased from SLS)
- used a hammer and blunt steel point to rivet the new part in (carefully, but without hesitation, as I have no press)
- put the roller holder back on the door, and the inside panel back in place

For somebody who has rebuilt the multi-function switch like you, this should be a walk in the park ;-)

Good luck, stay safe, enjoy!
-   

[yves]

Thank's FNG59   ...we are realy in the same  "Pagode promenade "    I have ordered the roller at SLS this afternoon… and will fit it ASAP  . As i am in containment… i'll have time to work on the car. And i will discover the Inside of the door….! another adventure ? will see 

[66andBlue]

Depending on how "original" you want to be you can buy a new plastic roller (with the correct cross-hatch grooves) and pin from
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Door-Check-Roller-Pin-Fits-230SL-250SL-280SL-p/auth-009559.htm
You also need a rivet punch that you can get on loan (that is, you buy first and then you get your money back upon return):
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Door-Check-Rivet-Punch-For-230SL-250SL-280SL-p/auth-007169.htm
The complete catch is shown here:
https://cdn3.volusion.com/r4zy7.bgtw9/v/vspfiles/photos/AUTH-002870-3.jpg?v-cache=1568627192

Or you can have a somewhat simpler version from our member "Memmo" here:
Go to: http://pagode-markt.de/nachfertigungen/nachfertigung.html
select: Türfangrollen
You can also contact him through the mail system here for price and shipping.

[Benz Dr.]

Thank's a lot MBZE ….    i'll see that ASAP if i can buy  the right  grease  gun

I use a small hand held unit that's used to grease the bearing on the end of a chain saw blade. It's perfect for this job.

[specracer]

This is what I did (Authentic classics). I did it "on the bench" however, as I had the door panel off already. I used drill, and drilled out the swedged part of the rivet. Then used their punch to re set the new rivet. Worked out perfectly. My symptom was the roller was ignored, and got a flat spot, when closing the door, would get a loud snap, as the roller was forced to roll as it hit the detent.

Depending on how "original" you want to be you can buy a new plastic roller (with the correct cross-hatch grooves) and pin from
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Door-Check-Roller-Pin-Fits-230SL-250SL-280SL-p/auth-009559.htm
You also need a rivet punch that you can get on loan (that is, you buy first and then you get your money back upon return):
https://www.authenticclassics.com/Door-Check-Rivet-Punch-For-230SL-250SL-280SL-p/auth-007169.htm

[yves]

I am waiting from SLS the roller part and from Eb the grease gun....... but i have some work again in the dash.... One green light in the central cluster for the turn signal doesn't work .... i have replaced all the bulbs with leds and it was working fine until yesterday???  I think i'll have to acces again to the cluster  but as i have also touched all the underdash  wiring loom putting back the head light flasher, may be i have unplugged something under the dash?
I'll have a look soon...!

[66andBlue]

... One green light in the central cluster for the turn signal doesn't work .... i have replaced all the bulbs with leds and it was working fine until yesterday???  I think i'll have to acces again to the cluster  but as i have also touched all the underdash  wiring loom putting back the head light flasher, may be i have unplugged something under the dash?
I'll have a look soon...!

When you turn the emergency flasher on do both green turn signal lamps work or just one? If only one blinks then perhaps the lamp is loose in the socket or burned out already.
If both blink then it could be the wiring to the turn signal controller. https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/FlasherRelay

[yves]

Thank's Alfred  i have at the moment tested  that and the emergency flasher has only the rigth light working%u2026. So unfortunately i'll have to go back in the dash...