Advice Part 1--dash pad

[RickInTex]

Having redone the speaker grill myself -- looks pretty good, not new, but much better than before--I now want to refurbish the upper dash pad, which is looking rough by comparison.  I may end up trying some vinyl dye to freshen the color, but mainly I'd like to take care of some ragged edges at the corners next to the gauge cluster and pillar on the right-hand (larger) pad.  Can I get it off without having to remove the left-hand wood strip (the right-hand I know needs to come out)?  I'm hoping so, since everything I've read tells me the left-hand piece is not fun....

Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[RickInTex]

Should be "Part 2."  Sorry.

Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[tuultyme]

I am afraid that you will need to take off the wood to get the padded dash off; both sides.  To get the left wood off it is a little easier if you first remove the tach which is not too bad;  do a search for instrument removal.

Bruce; 268Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Rick,

I just recovered my dash pieces and installed the large dash piece yesterday.  It is held in place by two screws which are located on the bottom edge of the front curved lip.  There is also a screw under the right side flap.  You need to remove the chrome piece on the door jamb and gently pry the vinyl/leather up to gain access to the screw.

At first thought I would have to agree with Bruce on removing the left wood.  As I gave it more thought I'm not so sure.  If you remove the right side plastic not that holds the left side down you may be able to lift that side up just enough to remove the dash.  Remove all three screws that hold the dash.  The dash must move forward about 3/8 of and inch or so to clear the screw brackets which hold the two screws yhay secure the bottom lip of the dash.  After the brackets are cleared the dash piece needs to go vertical in the front to clear the instrument cowl and then to the rear of the car to remove it.  I think its worth a try.  If it doesn't work you can do the rest which is a lot.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[ted280sl]

I am told by our expert web moderator, hello Richard, that the dash piece over the instruments is referred to as the binacle. My question to our expert panel is, can the binacle be covered with a single piece of MB Tex without cutting to fit the corners and creating seams? The option is to send the binacle out to a facility that will custom mold plastic to fit the binacle without seams. I have tried unsuccessfully to cover the binacle without creating a seam. The answer to this question has eluded me for some time.
Regards,
Ted 1969 280SL

[graphic66]

Yes it is covered with one piece and no seams. I had Bud's Benz recover mine with MB Tex. I would imagine if you used contact cement and a heat gun you could get it right. It might take a couple of tries but you don't use much material. Then, as with any job you do yourself you can have the satisfaction of knowing you did the job.

[jeffc280sl]

Ted,

The original instrument cover is one piece.  When I recovered mine I used thicker MB Tex which made it a little difficult.  The hardest part is covering the two curves at the front base of the binacle.  If you are carefull you can make a small cut out in this area to remove excess material.  The cut out can be covered very nicely by the left and right horizontal dash pieces.  Heat and contact cement help.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[RickInTex]

The more I think about it, the more it seems like I should go all the way and remove both wood pieces and all upper dash parts.  Basically, what I want to correct is vinyl coming loose at edges, but I also realize that the glue has given way on the binacle.  I'd thought about doing a full replacement, but I'd rather rehabilitate the original.  Mine is cognac, and it looks nothing like any of the swatches I see on upholstery websites--all of which seem to have a marked color pattern to imitate leather grain.  Mine has only the faintest such pattern, and as the door panels and seats look pretty good, I'd rather not replace the dash completely.

Any advice on the best glue to use?



Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[jeffc280sl]

Rick,  If your going that far consider the following also:

1) Remove/clean/test/repair/replace? heater core
2) Replace heater core valve o ring
3) Replace heater core firewall grommets
4) Replace heater levers (if needed)
5) Replace all instrument/dash light bulbs
6) Renew tach and speedo
7) Replace heater/defrost rubber gaskets (flaps)
Remove/clean/oil heater motor
9) Remove/clean/grease wiper mechanism
10)Remove/clean chrome side vent controls
11)Clean inside dash
12)Oil heater lever control cables


I may think of more but that's a good start.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[RickInTex]

quote:Originally posted by Lax882@aol.com

I may think of more but that's a good start.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

yes, it is....  given my other posts, take your time in thinking of other things, Jeff!  

long term, i do need to refurbish the heater.  levers and bulbs are intact, but cables need lube.  not urgent, as texas climate only calls for heat now and then, but would be nice to turn the heat off in the summer.  my main grip re. climate control is that turning on the blower produces wads of fuzzy insulation.  any fix for this, short of full-bore heater refurbishment?  (i think i know the answer...but?)

Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[graphic66]

I used Weldwood Gel contact cement for the MB Tex and carpet. It worked just fine. Just follow the instructions and you should end up with a good job.

[merrill]

Hello,
Rickintx,
Below is the recommended list of items to do when the dash is apart.
Items 1 thru 3 seem to be something I can do or remove and send out.
can you tell me how hard / easy 1-3 are or were? I have not dove under the dash to even find the heater core.

thx in advance -matt


1) Remove/clean/test/repair/replace? heater core
2) Replace heater core valve o ring
3) Replace heater core firewall grommets

send out to graves plating
10)Remove/clean chrome side vent controls

self
7) Replace heater/defrost rubber gaskets (flaps)
Remove/clean/oil heater motor
9) Remove/clean/grease wiper mechanism
11)Clean inside dash
12)Oil heater lever control cables
done
5) Replace all instrument/dash light bulbs
6) Renew tach and speedo

not needed
4) Replace heater levers

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Matt,

I just finished all of the items on your list.  It's not an easy job at all but it is very satisfying.  Takes a lot of time and patience.  Couple of tips along the way.  1) In order to get the blower assembly out you need to remove a bolt which runs through a 90 degree elbow bracket at the base of the assembly.  The bolt goes through the bracket and then the trans tunnel.  In order to un-bolt and re-bolt it you need to put a wrench on the bolt on the undersiode of the trans tunnel.  This can only be accessed through the plate on top of the trans tunnel which means the carpet has to be removed.  2) Be very careful removing the double inlet fan blades from the heater motor shaft.  The fan blades are plastic and brittle.  If they break as mine did your screw...d.  Use a lubricant to help loosen the allen set screws.  The set screws are on the inside part of the fan blade because the motor shafts were too short to use the outer set screw.  A long properly sized allen metric wrench is needed.

While you have the gauges out you might as well do the dash and wood.  Be very careful with the wood so as not to scratch the dash pieces.  It is quite dry at this point so be careful not to twist it too severly or it will split.  

The grommets and heater core o ring are easy and can be done with the heater core in the car through the engine compartment.  Plan the take the steering wheel and blinker assembly off.  I ended up taking my seats out as well.  It's very difficult job with these items out, can't imagine how uncomfortable it would be with them in place.  I'm sure there is a lot more I can sa but that's a good start.  Let me know when you get into it and I can help talk you through the issues as they come up.  Use sandwich baggies to hold the screws and parts. Separate and label them by unit.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[merrill]

Rickintx,
Thanks for your reply, I figured while the dash was all apart i would go ahead an pull the heater core.  it is orinal and might as well be checked out.
I plan to service the radiator as well. Might as well go ahead and service the heating / cooling system at one time.

thx
matt

[jeffc280sl]

I pulled my heater core for the same reason.  Don't ever want to go through all this work again because it leaked a year from now.  Had it pressure tested and cleaned. It was ok.  A re-core was a minimum of $275.   I painted the frame with epoxy paint and soldered a small bracket that had come loose.  I looks great and I hope it lasts another 35 years.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed