Power Steering Pump Removal - Request for Info/tips

[Pawel66]

I have a kind request for a couple of practical tips/information regarding PS pump removal so that I prepare for potential obstacles:

1. I have a late pump, I see pulley for conical shaft. The difficulties with removing pulley from shaft described in many posts - do they apply equally to "straight" shaft type and conical shaft type, or the difficulties are there rather for the "straight", early type of shaft?
2. Unscrewing the pulley - I read it is 22mm nut - how do you block the pulley/shaft to prevent it from turning while attempting to unscrew?

I found the procedure described by Joe Alexander of removal the pump without bracket - you start from unscrewing the 22mm pulley nut (hence my blocking question) and then you unscrew the screws behind the pulley and "jiggle pulley" out - hence the pulley removal difficulty question.

I also found another procedure for removing the pump with the bracket. Here my two questions also apply, just it happens on the bench.

I have oil dripping from under the pump bracket, top of the pump is dry, looks like no leak from hoses - I guess this is the pump leak. Ordered the seal set, now I need to remove the pump - certainly without radiator removal.

[ja17]

You can remove the nut by holding the "flat" behind the 22mm nut (may need a skinny wrench). Sometimes Belt tension alone will hold everything from turning if the belt is still on and tight. If your belt is still tight and you get the nut loose but not off, you can rotate the engine with the starter (pull coil wire so engine does not start). The rotation and the tension from the belt may loosen the pulley, by itself,  if yours has a tapered shaft. Leave the nut on but loose so the pulley does not come all the way off.  Otherwise, sometimes you can hold the pulley with large locking pliers or vice grips (be careful not to bend the pulley).

[UJJ]

Here is a picture of how to do it as per Joe's description. The open end wrench is a 36mm, but you also could use a large adjustable wrench.
The socket is 22mm and will fit in between the 36mm wrench.
2nd picture shows the pulley puller.
Urban

[UJJ]

Again, with picture

[Pawel66]

I see, thank you!

I understamd that what I thought was damaged part of pulley (like squeezed from both sides) is, actually used for holding the shaft. This will definitely work ok on the bench. Will be much more difficult to remove on the car with radiator in (no space for socket). Skinny spanner, as Joe says or cut 36mm slot in a piece of 2mm steel band.

[UJJ]

Pawel
I never attempted the removal with the radiator in place, perhaps a short socket (picture) will work.
However, if at all possible it certainly will be difficult to remove the pulley, pump etc. with the radiator in place.
But again I never tried it without clearing the area. Is there enough room for the puller?
Good luck, Urban

[Pawel66]

I have not yet tried it either. Regular socket for the pulley nut - forget it (this I checked).

I found a procedure of getting the pump without bracket out in tech Manual. I think it works when you are a little lucky with pulley willing to come off. Basically:
1. Undo the nut
2. Create tension against the pulley (carefully) with the pump holding screws (when you start unscrewing them, they come in contact with the pulley)
3. Jiggle out the pulley

Or, as in the posts above, try to use engine starter torque and belt tension to remove the pulley.

Then I found a procedure of taking out the pump with bracket out of there (enclosed).

In neither of these procedures you need room for a puller. You need a bit of luck though....

Also: I have noticed oil dripping from alternator support next to engine. Started looking for the leak source. I looked very closely at chain tensioner next to water pump and tried to feel any wet place in front of the engine closer to right hand side - all seemed dry. I have no idea where the leak may come from to go down to altrnator suport. So perhaps I will have to remove the radiator anyway to inspect engine front very closely...

[ja17]

One of the studs holding the alternator bracket in place is threaded into the block and through the casting into the engine sump. If the threads are not sealed, it can leak oil.

[Pawel66]

I see, thank you!

Same story as PS fluid resrvoir bracket screw as well as the back PS pump screw, probably some others too - great tip!

By the way: can I unscrew the oil pressure valve from front of engine to re-seal it (if need be) without fear that something inside will fall off?

[ja17]

There are numerous other places on the front of the engine that can leak. It's usually the chain tensioner, one of the front engine bolts, or valve cover.

[Pawel66]

Thank you again.

I will then check and come back with question if need be - is it secure to unscrew particular bolt to seal it, just like I was not sure about the pressure valve.

I will just need to do the ones that are suspects now (PS pump holding, alternator holding), wash the front and check again for leaks.

[Pawel66]

Some positive development: indeed as per simple procedure from the past and the recent advise the pulley came off - after loosening the 22mm nut, removing the belt and turning a bit and "jiggling out" the pulley from the shaft just with two screwdrivers. Now just to get the pressure hose off, pump out. Then sealing the bracket bolts and sealing the pump.

Then hopefully assembly in reverse order.

Hope this will work.

[Pawel66]

Sorry to bother you with this, probably trivial topics, but I wanted to get it right...

Can you kindly help answer a couple of questions with reference to the PS pump bracket picture below:

1. Key question: where is this oil coming from? It looks brown.
- PS pump is dry as Martini all around, I have a seal kit, but I do not think I should touch it
- there is some oil-wet dust at the bottom of distributor drive cover, more to the left (as you look from the seat) close to PS bracket
- engine front above that, starting from the valve cover down - dry and nice
- stickandrudderman kindly pointed at the screw with blue arrow (I think) - I am going to seal it, looks suspicious
- I see a couple of holes (I think threaded) where the orange arrows are and one more above, outside of picture - what are they for? Can oil leak from them?

2. How do I seal this screw with blue arrow - it looks like there is no thread to be sealed, it has a nut on the other side (dry). Shall I use 2 seal rings - head to bracket and bracket to engine?
3. If the orange-arrowed holes are leaking - how do I seal them?

[ctaylor738]

WRT the "screw with the blue arrow" - I think it goes through a flange on the block completely outside of the oil. areas of the engine, thus no need to seal it.

CT

[Pawel66]

Thank you! I am just about to get on it - your tip came right on time!