self refinish 230 sl wood

[merrill]

Should I refinish the wood in my 230 sl or send it out. Buds benz quotes about $500 to rstore the wood.

If I should refinish the wood are instructions on the forum?

thx
matt

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by merrill

Should I refinish the wood in my 230 sl or send it out. Buds benz quotes about $500 to rstore the wood.

I've never used them, but this company gets a lot of great reviews:
http://www.heritagewoodworks.com/

quote:Originally posted by merrill

If I should refinish the wood are instructions on the forum?

Use the Search tool to find lots of comments from members who have done this work themselves.  The opinions on best techniques and materials to use vary widely.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Dick M]

It depends on how bad the wood is.. If it needs new lamenent might be better to send out.  If wood just needs finish I would go for it.  I just did mine and it came out pretty good.... cost me about $16.

Lots of good hints on the site...Most important to remember the veneer is only 1/64th thick when new...



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Dick M
1970 SL

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by Dick M

If it needs new lamenent might be better to send out.  If wood just needs finish I would go for it.  I just did mine and it came out pretty good.... cost me about $16.

Lots of good hints on the site...Most important to remember the veneer is only 1/64th thick when new...

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Dick,
How did you sand the speaker grille?  Looks like a tough job.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Mike Hughes]

First off, you don't sand the thin veneer on these pieces.  ONLY use fine steel wool and always go with the grain.  Use sandpaper and you will be sending them out to be refinished anyway, I promise.  If the wood is so far gone that you can't get a decent surface prep with just steel wool, send it out to be done professionally.

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havanna Brown (408)
  Light Beige (181)
  Cream M-B Tex (121)

[Dick M]

Rodd...
On the dash pieces and the caddy between the seats I used #000 and #0000 steel wool and lots of time to remove the old finish.  On the Speaker grill however I used 320 and 420 wet dry with a flat stick (Popsicle like).  The grill wood was not veneer and I could be a little more aggressive removing the old finish.

Mine isn’t show quality but looks good enough for running around town...especially given it cost only $16.


Dick M
1970 280SL

[RickInTex]

matt, on the grill:

i redid my speaker grill about two months ago and used stripper to remove the old finish, 000 steel wool and mineral spirits to clean, stained it slightly to match the other wood, then 0000 steel wool to smooth, and three thin coats of marine varnish with steel wool in between.  on my grill, the thin slats are not veneer, but the outer frame actually is.  i realized this only a little too late when i had taken some of it off by smoothing too much in a few spots.  so be careful:  the outer part of your grill may indeed be veneer.

but it was fun and cheap, and a nice improvement to the dash.

Rick
Dallas TX
1967 250SL, 4-speed

[n/a]

If your speaker grill is too far gone, an unfinished replacement is available from Bud's Benz for $80.  You will need to sand it with a 220 fine sandpaper to smooth it properly and remove any traces of glue.  It is solid mahogany, not veneer, so it is great to work with.

Stain the piece to match the other pieces in your car.  Then, as Rick says, use several light spray coats of Helmsman Marine Varnish.  It takes some time, but it is not difficult.  The important thing to a great finish is good prep, a dust free environment with low humidity, very light sanding between coats.  Take your time and don't rush the job.
Best regards,
Don
Cleveland, OH
71 280sl