Where on the soft top frame do these go ?

[Dave H]

Can’t figure out where these go , anyone have a picture of them fitted and what do they do ?
Item 68 in the second picture.

[GM]

This subject is near and dear to my heart right now - I'm re-doing my soft top.
As you can see, the part you reference is not the same as item 68 in the exploded diagram.
Part 68 is this one, attached. I tried to order the replacement from Niemoeller, and received the part that you reference. They claim it is what MB says is the replacement, but it's obviously not. For the record, other suppliers claim it is the replacement part, too.

[mbzse]

Can’t figure out where these go , anyone have a picture of them fitted and what do they do?.../...

Some info in this previous Forum posting:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=30224.msg218919#msg218919

[mbzse]

.../...the part you reference is not the same as item 68 in the exploded diagram.../...

They are similar enough to serve the purpose (cushion soft top frame).
If you want to you can modify the shape (cut it)

[Dave H]

Thanks guys, I will try them tomorrow, if they need to be shaped I could do it a craft knife, will let you know if it works and post a picture...fingers crossed.

[Dave H]

Also guys, I have doubts about the screws I’m taking out of the frame being correct.
They are all the same hex head self tapping screws, reason I doubt they are correct is the size of the head interfering with all the rubber seals plus they are 1/4”AF ?
Can you guys confirm if these are the original type screws ?

[Aaron h]

No, those are definitely not correct or original.  In the picture below you'll see the correct type of screws that are supposed to hold these pieces on.  The top screw is an original size, and the bottom one is a bit larger.  It's very common for the holes that these screws go into to become enlarged.  Hence, the need for a slightly larger diameter screw.  The larger screw will stand a little proud of the chrome rail, but they won't cause the seal to not seat properly.  Unless you weld the original holes shut and then re-drill them to the proper diameter the larger screw is the solution. The holes becoming enlarged is likely why someone used these odd screws, and a lot of times the original screws will rust/seize into their holes.  Removing them usually breaks them or strips out the Phillips slot in the head of the screw.

The part number for the screws that hold the front chrome rail in is 007982-003238, and a total of 11 are required.  These are still available from Mercedes for around 1.74 Euros each.

The part number for the screws that hold the rear rail on to the bottom of the soft top is 000000-000446, and a total of 20 are required.  These are still available from Mercedes for around 1.00 Euro or less.

On the rear seal at the bottom of the soft top there are two screws at each end of the seal that hold the ends of the seal to the rail.  There are also two concave washers that go on these two screws.  These somehow go missing over the years.  The screw part number is 000000-004391, and the washer part number is 000-990-80-83.  The two washers are still available at .49 Euros each, and the two screws are still available at around 1.10 Euros each.

I'm sure these pieces of hardware could be sourced elsewhere since they conveniently have a DIN number, but the concave washers you may have to get from Mercedes.

[Dave H]

Aaron
Thank you for your prompt reply.
I will source some of the larger screws and hardware today buddy.

Kind regards
Dave H

[mrfatboy]

Search the below seller on eBay to source all the screws in Stainless Steel that you need.  Good pricres. Seller will work with you on any special quantities you need.

pa-inoxelement

😁

[mbzse]

.../...seller on eBay to source all the screws.../...

Yes if you go for stainless. Chromed brass is also quite ok, imho.
chromschrauben24.de might be a useful vendor. Has kits specific to Pagoda
Is also on ebay

[Dave H]

Happened to have plenty of 4.2mm x15mm countersunk in the shed so will push on with these.
Also the buffers were modified but in fitting you have to remove the bottom frame, started to do this however the captive nuts within the bottom frame started to turn so I backed off.
The buffers/ grommets appear to do very little and would rip off within no time in my opinion.
Will have another go tomorrow but with the risk of doing damage in trying to remove the lower frame I may not fit them, looking forward to fitting the hood in the morning, Boris has put us all on lockdown since last Tuesday so pushing on with the rebuild.

[hkollan]

Pozidriv, please no. ;-)

Hans K

[Dave H]

Buried beneath seals and coated in weatherseal mastic yes 😍

[Dave H]

Finally finished, pleased with the result, much peeling off and reglueing to get right, bottom bow is especially awkward ,you stretch the canvas as you go to still arrive at the B post with material left . still, we all have of time on our hands in lockdown, enjoy your tinkering guys 👍what to start next ? I feel like I have the worlds best jigsaw in the garage.

[Dave H]

After much too-ing and fro-ing the hood is on the car, so glad I read the tech manual about how to stretch the hood ,at first I thought I’d dropped one almighty blob as I could not slam it shut at the rear, generous use of a hairdryer on the plastic screen and as a last resort tried the other technique I read on hear , in your stocking feet put one foot on the rear wheel and slam it with your other foot, worked  first time. I love it.
Will leave the top up as long as possible now to stretch and settle in.