full rack screw on injection pump

[jim 56]

I have a couple of questions about setting up my pump.It is a R28 with only the stop solenoid (which I have taken off and put a blank plate over)My car runs rich over all rpm's.
I am trying to screw it all the way in but I have already turned it 18 clicks.does anybody know what is the range of this screw from all the way in till it comes unthreaded.I believe the low idle screw is about 66 clicks.Mine was out 50 so I turned it in all the way in and backed it out 32.Now I would like to try and set the full rack at some starting point.I thought I read here 6 clicks from full in but can't find which post.

[jim 56]

sorry i wrote that wrong I meant the range from when it is screwed all the in till when I back it out all the way until it becomes unthreaded

[jeffc280sl]

My spare r22y pump has a range of 90 clicks on the main rack adjuster.  This is calculated from the CW stop until turning the rack screw counterclockwise until there are no clicks. I don't know the effective range of this screw for tuning.  I would say that range is more in the 80 click range

[jim 56]

Thanks I turned mine to the stop clockwise then backed it out 8 clicks.Have some other things to check but I'm in a lot better place now.

[jeffc280sl]

your welcome.   adjusting the main rack, partial and full load screws is usually the last adjustment to make on the car.

i hope you get your issues sorted.

my dad grew up in Bellerose in the 30s and 40s.  i remember the tunnel under the railroad tracks he took to get to elementary school.

[Pawel66]

Here is the advise I received from a knowledgeable fellow Member: if you are lost in clicks of the thumb idle screw and/or the all rpm adjuster screw - put 2mm worth of shims under BC and start from there.

This is to put the pump in the middle of the adjustment range. Then use either the proper CO meter, or spark plug colour to adjust more or less wide rpm range. Then adjust idle. Then adjust WRD if you care.

Adding and removing shims from under BC is easier than turning the main adjuster.

Very accurate adjustment would require measurements under load.

Since I followed this advise, I found my way through this.

[jim 56]

Thanks for help. Jeff tunnel is still there it goes to St Gregorys between school and church.My kids went there.

[jeffc280sl]

your welcome.  i think my dad went to the Floral Park/Bellerose School.  i remember in the 60's trains shaking my grandparents house when they went by.

keep us up to date with your issues

[Shvegel]

I rebuilt my own pump just because I was fascinated with what was in there. After seeing how they are put together there are really no places to allow for the pump to fall out of adjustment.  Make sure your warmup regulator, Barometric compensator, linkage, engine compression, ignition timing and dwell are all AOK before getting into any adjustments.  I did not spend a ton of time in Han’s shop (H and R fuel injection) before he passed but i do remember him on the phone talking more people out of rebuild than telling them to send it in.

[jeffc280sl]

Shvegel,

like you i'm fascinated with the fip.  its an engineering marvel.  with regards to tuning what did you do once you rebuilt the pump. 

i used the on road dyno specs to tune my fip.  i'm happy with the results but don't know if i would do it again because it was very challenging technically.

jeff

[Shvegel]

Hans at H and R set it up before he passed away.  He gave me good marks other than a stylus that was a little to worn so he changed that.  I have most everything to set up a test stand but only have a spec sheet for my specific 24R pump.

[jeffc280sl]

nice.  i'm sure you can imagine what it must be like to adjust the white and black screws on a hot engine.  i'll bet i made 20 test runs.  each run required data logging, adjustments then test.  adjusting the white/black screws using a light, mirror and screw driver was difficult.  i needed three hands but only had room for one and a few fingers.
makes me cringe to think about.