What is the correct gap for the hood?

[waltklatt]

Hello all,
I'm currently puzzled with the hood gaps on my 1965 230SL.
I had to repair the nose section and installed a new hood(used)and nose panel(used).  The hood gaps are perfectly even all around when closed, between 1/8th and 3/16th of an inch.  
Now the puzzle is this: when the hood is fully open, the aluminum of the hood is contacting the steel of the fenders.  
What should the correct gap size be?

Walter Klatt
1963 230SL-needs complete restoration(possibly for sale)
1965 230SL-in primer, ready for paint
1967 230SL-needs clutch bleeding and ready for paint

[George Davis]

Walter,

I wonder if part of the answer is in the angle of the hood when open.  I seem to recall seeing some photos where the hood straps only allow the hood to open about 45-60 degrees, whereas mine opens 90 degrees... and it touches the fender when open that far, too.





George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by George Davis

whereas mine opens 90 degrees

Geroge,
Nothing personal, but what the heck kind of hood prop (spring/rod) do you have on your car?!?!?!  If I were to open my hood that far, the prop would continue to slide through the catch and the tension would release, flinging it down and around towards the battery.

Curiously,

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[George Davis]

Hi Rodd,

the hood prop rod (or spring or whatever one wants to call it) appears to be normal as far as I know... which may not be very far.  The end of the rod engages in the grooved block when the hood is fully open (90 degrees), and that is actually what stops it from opening further; the check strap is still slightly slack at that point.

I take it your hood opens less than 90 degrees?  Perhaps the earlier cars are different from the later ones in this respect?

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[J. Huber]

Probably not much help here but I'll throw it in anyway...

My car never had a strap. My hood opens up to a comfortable stop at maybe 70-80 degrees. However, because there's no strap, I have had situations where mechanics (or even the wind once) kept tugging it more to about 85-90. Then the front edge scrapes in a few places.

James
63 230SL

[Klaus]

AFAIK:
In production the aluminum hoods were individually finished by hand for individual chassis numbers, that's why they have the body number stamped in. New spare part hoods come in slightly excess size and have to be finished by the installer. Your used hood may have come from a car with a larger chassis cutout.
On my car the gap is 3/16 th of an inch

Klaus
1969 280 SL

[waltklatt]

George the hood opens to the 80 degree or close to that.  The tension rod horn(small bend at end) snaps into the slot of the plastic retainer.  The hood is just kissing the fender sides.  I think I will need to shave a bit more aluminum off like Klaus says to the 3/16" inch.  Just in that area only, not the entire edge of the hood.  I don't want to make it look too wide.  The strap will be fastened and once this is in place then I dont have to worry about the hood opening too far.
I will post a picture of the gaps.  Also the tension rod is bent halfway between the hood opening and the horn.  It's supposed to be straight, but this will increase the hood angle to nearly 90 degrees, and this is where the snapping and popping sounds come in (hood scraping the fender).
On my 67 the hood gaps are slightly wider like 3/16th and it opens with ease right up to the 90 degree point, but I cant open it that far now(A/C condenser is in the way).

Thanks for the replies,
Walter
1963, 1965, 1967 230SL's

[waltklatt]

James, does that mean non of the 63's had a hood strap?
I also have a 63 and there is a strap holding the hood.  Possibly a later addition?

Walter
1963, 1965, 1967 230SL's

[Vince Canepa]

The gap should be an even 4mm all the way around.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

[J. Huber]

Hi Walt. I cannot speak for other 63's but I am pretty sure mine didn't have the strap. I base it on my hood being original and prior to my paint, there being no holes where the strap bracket would be. I also vaguely recall reading that some early photos of the 230SL didn't have the strap. Anyway, by no means am I saying others didn't have them.

What is your chassis or aufbau number? My VIN is a Euro 000871 and body number is 00881. Others out there with early cars? This could yeild some clues?

James
63 230SL

[waltklatt]

Hello James,
Wow, your's is earlier than mine, which is VIN# 001246, also a Euro.
I finally figured out why the gaps are too tight.  The curvature of the fender around the hood is not even and consistent.  Simply removed the hood and ground a bit more metal on the fender off.  Now it looks much better and the surfaces are not touching.
Thanks to all for the help.
Walter

What is your chassis or aufbau number? My VIN is a Euro 000871 and body number is 00881. Others out there with early cars? This could yeild some clues?

James
63 230SL
[/quote]

[J. Huber]

Glad you got that worked out Walt. Of course, I had to go take a look at my gaps... Not very consistent. I have about 5-6mm on one side and 3 on other, and the driver side seems higher... Do I dare try to make a slight adjustment? How and how hard? Last thing I want to do is make it worse...

James
63 230SL

[Arjun]

Hello,

I am about to buy a 67 250sl with a vin# 002210.

The hood is not completely flush with the body. On the drivers side the gap increases towards the front of the car.  The hood is stamped 036.
Being not completey flush, is this a used/ replacement hood.

[George Davis]

Just to set the record straight, I lied about my hood opening 90 degrees.  Like Walter's, it's about 80 degrees.



George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[norton]

To even up your hood to fender gaps, when using a used hood I would think that you would file or grind on the sides of the hood, this is how Mercedes fit these hood when are cars where built.

[J. Huber]

Actually Walt, The VIN number is not the same as the Aufbau or body number. Each has its own place on the data card and on the vehicle. The Aufbau number would be on the upper driver's corner of the hood.
Common mistake...especially for me because one is 871 and the other 881...I still get confused.

If I knew how, I'd send you to the other recent Thread about body numbers...

JH

James
63 230SL

[Douglas]

Walter is mistaken. The aufbau number is totally different from the VIN. Go to the following site to see an example (Ed Cave's SL) and its numbers:

http://www.motoringinvestments.com/RestoLog.htm

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[Arjun]

Thank you Douglas,

I understand now.

Arjun