transmission mount washers and caster?

[merrill]

hello
the other day i took my 66 230 sl in to have the alignment checked.

using the BBB and tips from others on this forum we were able to get all but the caster exactly on spec.
the drivers side adjuster was maxed out

after thinking about it for a while wouldn't adding a shim between the transmission mount and the mounting plate at "more caster"  or is this only for drive line alignment

I looked at the sls web site and they sell various thickness shims for use between the mount and the plate. (items 26 and 27 in the diagram.  26 is 1MM thick and 25 is 5 mm thick

any feedback would be appreciated.
thanks in advance

[ja17]

The various washers are for drive shaft alignment. But it is best to loosen the rear transmission mount bolt so front end castor adjustment can more easily be made. The front sub frame along with the engine and transmission must be able to move a bit for the castor adjustment.

[merrill]

hi Joe,
thanks for the response

yep, when we did the alignment we loosened the trans plate bolt, drives shaft bearing and subframe centering rod.

now to go back and double check the 5mm washer is in the proper location.

[Pawel66]

Drive shaft bearing? You mean the two bolts keeping it in place?

Should it not be the 46mm nut? Do you get movement without tension by loosening the bearing mount bolts really?

[merrill]

Pawel
hi
my axle did not have the 46 mm nuts, unless the mechanic missed em.

he just loosened the 2 bolts holding the bearing in place.

looking at the sls web site there is an early and a late driveshaft.  looks like the early did not have the nut?

when i look at the trans mount washers i will take another look at the driveshaft.....

[dirkbalter]

Hey Matt,
No Nut. I believe we have the same year.

[merrill]

Dirk
hi,
I guess my car has the old style drive shaft.  no 46mm nut that i can see. 

[Pawel66]

To be honest - no idea.

The nut on the drive shaft was mentioned as part of caster adjustment procedure here on the Forum and also in my BBB, which is for 280SL.

In any case - the idea is that subframe will move backwards or forwards while adjusting. The drive shaft must be able to change the length - by whatever means is there available.

After the caster adjustment I did the procedure of settling the drive shaft as if it was after removing/fitting it (letting the nuts and bolts just semi-lose, move the car back and forth, rock it a bit and tighten everything in the car standing on wheels.