Manual Transmission Cover Plate and Innards

[Leester]

I have searched everywhere I can think of and other than a parts diagram I can't really find any information on a new problem.

After installing my engine and transmission in my 1970 280SL I discovered that the shaft (#139 in the diagram) [see next post for diagram] on the manual transmission cover plate that goes in and out of the cover plate as gears are changed was bent. Yes, it does have the correct downward bend but it is also bent from side to side. This is a really stout piece of steel and I can’t begin to imagine how that could have happened.

It is supposed to have a downward bend but with the side to side bend the shifting tube (#186) is crooked in the transmission tunnel and the end of the shifting tube that the gear shift handle (#262) attaches to doesn’t even line up in the square tunnel hole to install the shift handle.

I have a separate manual transmission cover with the same shaft (#139) that isn’t bent (from side to side) and I was just going to swap out the covers. Having cleaned up the cover I discovered that it’s broken out at the hole where one of the shifting rods (#166 and #168) is secured in the cover.

So new plan is to remove the good shaft (#139) from the broken cover and install it into the good cover.  It looks like to swap the parts out I will have to remove the shifting forks from the cover assembly and it looks like this is done by knocking out the shifting rods (#166 and #168).

After cleaning it up some, there is a removable key that retains the shifting rods in the cover. Obviously the key needs to be completely removed, but what lies beyond is completely new to me so I'm looking for advice from anyone who has noodled around inside the shifting cover.

Question 1: with respect to the rods, are they just driven out with a drift or is there another procedure?
Question 2: once the shifting forks are out, is there any trick to removing the shaft (#139)?
Question 3: are any special tools required to make this change?
Question 4: unless there is something not apparent in the picture, is this a do it yourself job or should I take it to someone?
Question 5: what is the best sealant to use when I replace the cover?

Another alternative is to close up the broken part with JB Weld and just use that cover but if swapping out the shafts is doable, I think that is a better solution.

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

[Leester]

It looks like only one picture came through on the previous post so adding more here.

[ja17]

The long key at the end of the cover holds all three rods in place. The key in the picture is broken off as is the housing. You will need to replace the key also.  Once it is removed the rods can be driven out. Beware, there are notches in the rods where  spring loaded balls engage (detent). When you remove the rods, the spring and ball fall out of their pockets in the fork housing. To prevent this, follow the rod out of the fork housing with your replacement rod (actually using the replacement rod as the drift).  Be sure to keep all the spacers and shims in the correct place! Was your transmission shifting ok before? It would be nice to check the main body of the transmission also. There is some good information and pictures on this site. Try searching up "transmission slotted nut" or "loose gear cluster".

[Leester]

Thanks Joe, exactly what I needed to know at this point, especially the warning about the spring loaded balls. The transmission shifts fine with no problems. Thanks also for the search tips.

Lee

[Leester]

Almost there -

The objective here is to get at and remove the shaft (#139 in the diagram in earlier post). I've removed the shifting forks, spacers and washers, rods plus balls and springs from the salvage shift cover with the broken key housing.

Picture 1613 shows the inside of the housing now. To get at the shaft, I need to remove the guide plate but I don't see how to remove the fasteners holding it in place. (See arrows pointing at them in picture 1613). 

Please help with removal of the guide plate (arrows) fasteners.

Again, many thanks in advance.     

[ja17]

I believe these are special lock nuts which have to be unscrewed. They have been locked into place by flattening the sides. They should be replaced with new if removed. The flattened sides at the base, may accommodate a wrench for removal, otherwise you may need to grinding disc to remove them. You might not want to disturb this unless absolutely necessary.

[Leester]

The transmission Top Cover from the 230SL is now fully disassembled. Photo 1612a shows the nut and as usual Joe is correct that I was able to get a Crescent wrench on it and turn it loose. 1626 shows the inside of the cover with the nut and washers as well as the Guide Plate removed (which the nut and washers held in place). 1630 shows the inside of the Top Cover and the tip of the Finger which is attached to the Shaft. And finally 1638 shows the shaft and the finger removed.

Recall that the shaft on my 280SL transmission is bent from side to side which is why I undertook to disassemble this 230SL top cover and remove the shaft, with the plan to install the 230SL shaft into the 280SL transmission.

Next is disassembly of the 280SL Top Cover to get to the bent shaft. But now I wonder if the Finger is off by one spline of the shaft which would explain why it appears to be bent.

Thanks to Joe for giving me the confidence to dive deeper into this mini project and many thanks to everyone who posts on all the various subjects. I could not possibly be putting this car back together without all the information and expertise gleaned from this board.

I would also point out that if someone needs a transmission, we typically avoid sedan transmissions since they have the incorrect shaft. Its now appears possible to remove these W113 specific shafts and install them into sedan Top Covers with no special tools.

Thanks Joe and all

Lee