Steering Box rebuild - advice after the rebuild.

[Paul99]

I had my steering box rebuilt (By the SL Shop) and refitted.  Its the original 1966 130k miles box.

Now I have the car back there are two issues I am not sure about.

1) Originally the power steering was very LIGHT (American car light vs UK a bit stiffer)   Now its come back and it turns smoothly but it is much less light.  Is that to be expected with a rebuild? or should the lightness still be the same before and after a full rebuild and is it adjustable?

2) I have noticed the turning circle isn't even, as in I can turn the wheel more one way than the other so not "central".  Is that an issue with the box rebuild, or an issue with the garage fitment?    Just wanted to check before I take it back to the garage.

Any thoughts please?

[wwheeler]

Not sure about the lightness, but should be an even number of turns one side to the other. Sounds like the box shaft was not centered when installed. There is a countersink on the main shaft and you use a centering bolt to find and lock the dead center position. Once installed, you remove this bolt and install the plug.

There are posts here about finding the center of the box and pics of the centering bolt. I made one myself by taking a regular bolt and grinding a point on the end.

[Pawel66]

I have just refitted mine after rebuilt by SLS. I also am not sure about the tightness - mine may be a little tighter, but i changed the wheel to smaller Nardi...

on the even amount of turns, that may be an installation question.

1. You have to unscrew the bolt close to the air vent. If you ha ve the box in the car already, suck out the PS fluid as it will spill through there.

2. Look inside the opening after the removed bolt. When you have the steering wheel more or less in the middle, turn it gently (otherwise it will spill the fluid) and looking inside the opening find the round indent in the piston moving back and forth.

3. Position this indent under the opening after the bolt. Get an M8 screw (small thread), make a cone at the end of it on the grinder and screw it in to hold the piston i n position. Now you have the box centered.

4. Make sure the marks onn the pitman arm and its shaft are aligned.

5. Make sure that the mark on the steering spindle  on its end where you fit the steering wheel points up as you install the spindle in the coupling.

Now you have the system centered. It is all described on the forum.

Now you can adjust toe-in. More or less in the garage,precisely in the specialized shop.

Also pay attentioin to the length of the steering spindle - there is an orifice where you shopuld stick screwdriver so that the spindle does not collapse by accident as you work on it.

[Charles 230SL]

Paul, here's some more good info on centering your steering box: https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=21950.msg156566#msg156566

[Paul99]

OK, great thanks guys.  Think we can sort the "central" issue, just not sure about the "tightness" of the steering. Just seems a bit heavier, working great but the lightness has gone.  Could be just the old box was mega worn and loose and the new one as it should be. Its not binding or anything just a bit tighter.

Not sure if there is any adjustment to that whilst its in the car.  ??

[stickandrudderman]

I really don't understand why anyone takes anything to the The SL Shop.
They're all smoke and mirrors.
If the Pitman arm is not installed correctly you will have an uneven amount of turns from left to right.
When rebuilding the box there is a friction spec which requires very careful adjustment to get right.
If yours was loose before it will always feel tighter after rebuild but is it the correct tightness? Most owners won't know.

[PeterPortugal]

Paul,

I agree with Stick. I bought a unit from ebay Germany and had it posted direct to a re-builder there. Check the arm, you should see that the correct orientation on the splines is identified by scribe marks. Also in the BBB there is a diagram which shows you how to measure the correct orientation. My box came back with the arm loosely installed in the incorrect position.

Once you have it all centered also make sure that at full lock in each direction you are hitting the metal stops at the bottom of the stub axle assembly.

Regards

Peter

[PeterPortugal]

This picture is from the BBB for a W111 - I think the steering is the same for an SL but please check.

[ja17]

When everything is correct, the steering wheel lock will engage when the front wheels are straight and the steering wheel and steering shaft are centered. The turn signals will then cancel correctly and the turning revolutions will be equal from side to side.

[Paul99]

great, thanks guys.