Ed,
the starting sequence cold (with CSV) is to simply turn the key until it starts. Don't push the gas pedal, the WRD adds extra air/fuel. The owner's manual suggests turning the key on and waiting a few seconds before cranking (to allow fuel pressure time to build up).
For warm or hot starts, cracking the throttle open a bit until it fires is recommended. When warm/hot, theoretically you shouldn't need the CSV at all, although some engines do like a 1-second shot from the CSV even when warm/hot. Something to experiment with.
I assume you are taking power for your CSV switch from a fuse-protected source. If not, you should put a fuse in-line as close to the power source as possible. Since you are manually taking over the function of the thermo-time switch, remember not to activate the CSV for too long, to prevent flooding. The thermo-time swithch limits CSV operation to 12 seconds or less, depending on how cold it is.
Additional suspension bushings:
By rear pivot point, I assume you mean the diff mount located at the front of the trunk?
Torque arms each have two bushings, front "donut" bushings, and the rear bushings where the arms attach to the axles.
There are four bushings on the diagonal cross-arm that provides lateral location for the rear axle, two where it connects to the diff, and two where it attaches to the body. Also there is a rubber grommet on the cross-arm that you might want to replace.
Front sway bar bushings.
The front subframe lateral link, or cross arm, or whatever it's called, has a small silentblock bushing in each end. It's the small arm that connects from the middle-rear of the front subframe to the chassis.
You are in for lots and lots of fun!
George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual
