Fuel pipe removall

[Brennie]

Hi
Thinking about removing the fuel lines to get them zinc plated.. question. At the front by the cooling fan, there is a bracket .. is it necessary to remove the large lower bolt to free the whole assembly? Checking mine ,by feel.. it is rusty and may be hard to remove.. worried about damaging the engine case for what,in the end is a vanity project for me…

[Brennie]

Or.. tips on removing this bolt while engine is in situ .. thank you

[Pawel66]

From what I remember you do not have to remove the large bolt to remove the fuel lines, you undo the small bolt so that the bracket comes apart. Then it is a bit of a nighmare to put the lines back, but can be done. Just note the order of the fuel lines how they sit in the bracket.

But it would be worth to zinc plate that bracket too... I think I did it with the socket, there was enough space. Putting this bolt back I put some thread seal on it.

[Brennie]

Thank you
That’s what I was thinking.. but I’d like to plate the bracket too.. also easier to examine the order of installation.. BUT.. it’s appearing that there is a bit of rust on the large bolt.. I can get a socket on it and a large bar, but reluctant to apply too much torque .. it’s been soaking in lubricant over night.. perhaps a sharp tap with a mallet??

[Esmo]

Hi A couple of points re plating fuel injection lines . I had mine plated yellow however they were returned blocked and as I was unsure I bought a new set.  So ensure you cap the ends well or consider buying new . The other thing to consider is the colour yellow or zinc .

[Brennie]

Hoping for yellow zinc… the alternative being? Silver zinc?

[Pawel66]

Thank you
That’s what I was thinking.. but I’d like to plate the bracket too.. also easier to examine the order of installation.. BUT.. it’s appearing that there is a bit of rust on the large bolt.. I can get a socket on it and a large bar, but reluctant to apply too much torque .. it’s been soaking in lubricant over night.. perhaps a sharp tap with a mallet??

I could comment, but it would have to be followed by several disclaimers...

Just do not lose this bolt. Its length is, actually, critical. If you screw in too long bolt, you may damage the head as its orifice does not really go through the head wall, it meets the tensioner pivot there.

[Esmo]

Passivation/ Plating in yellow is more difficult due to the chemicals used and some platers only do silver so you’ll have to shop around. A new set is usually yellow I think.

[Brennie]

Ok..so,bolt is now out,but the nuts on the injectors are proving difficult to budge,so,I’ll leave them alone..next,help with these please..my instincts are that they just pop apart,but not proving to be the case..scared to force them..what next?
Thank you

[Brennie]

Sorry…these…I’d like to separate them to send off for plating also..

[Pawel66]

Just get a large flat screwdriver and pry them off the studs so that they pop off. I use upholsterer's pliers for that.

As for the connections of lines to injectors or the injection pump - may not be easy. For the fuel injection pump connectors you need either a spanner or one with the cut eye at the end. Start from one of the outer ones as it is more convenient.

As for the injectors - it is difficult to find position of a spanner to hold injector and another spanner or the one with the cut eye to undo the lines. You will most likely damage the hexagonal surfaces. I do it with two crow foot sockets and with two ratchets. Like this one:

https://allegro.pl/oferta/nasadki-cr-v-klucz-nasadowy-sondy-przewodow-laser-11053510802

And the wrench with a cut eye (do not know the English name):
https://allegro.pl/oferta/klucz-oczkowy-otwary-do-przewodow-18x19m-jonnesway-9553320437

[Brennie]

Thank you…I have the proper tool for the job,but,a little too much resistance for my liking…going to let the professionals do it…
As for the ball and socket connections…I did try the screwdriver thing…guess I’ll go back and give it a more concerted try….they appear to be plastic??…not original I take it?

[Pawel66]

I do not know. They do not look like plastic... I have not seen those you are showing - maybe they have something you need to press to unlock - not sure.
Mine look differently. If any of them falls apart - new ones are available. Mine have spring inside to hold them.

[doitwright]

Passivation/ Plating in yellow is more difficult due to the chemicals used and some platers only do silver so you’ll have to shop around. A new set is usually yellow I think.

Original plating was Cadmium. A brief dip in yellow chromate provides the yellow color. Few shops still do Cadmium due to environmental reasons so most are now doing Zinc. The plating process is similar. For an excellent DIY plating tutorial, watch Mike’s Restorations video where he explains the prep and plating process using the Caswell system.

 https://youtu.be/hTupOgImpWo

[George Lollar]

I removed injector lines recently, bought an injector socket from NAPA, I believe 17MM, labeled as being for Ford V10 diesel.  Socket went straight in, opening for lines, not offset torque like regular crowfoot wrench.  Worked great.