Engine cradle

[MarkCan]

Today I got the engine of the stand to continue with the assembly.
I plan on first starting it out fo the car (when the time comes). I have a low budget cradle that does the job on small 4 banger. For our L6, it me be a touch fragile. Well for now I just put the 2x10 as the main support under the engine. Tomorrow I plan to get some proper supports constructed and mount the engine correctly.
Any rolling cradle plans kicking around? Let me know.

[MarkCan]

Any rolling cradle plans kicking around? Let me know.

I can’t believe no one built his own cradle.
Anyway, with the engine crane taking up big chunk out of my work space I had to act. Welding solid structures at home is not an option so I visited few machine shop. Pretty quick I found out that earliest I could get something done was 2 weeks. They are all extremely busy. Well, that was not an option either.
I took some measurements, got some wood from the shed and pulled out my trusty….

Details coming tonight.

[MarkCan]

Here it is, home made engine cradle.

[wwheeler]

Not sure how much help this will be, but I made an engine skid for my 220SE Ponton engine. Worked very well and will make another like it for the 280SE W111 engine when that time comes.

[dirkbalter]

Since you are asking. Not a real skid but it serves me well. Dry assembling as my buddy calls it.

[MarkCan]

List of materials;
Dolly of your choice, I had a small light duty cradle already
1 piece of  2x10 min 24”
2 pieces of 4x4, 350mm (@ the long wall) cut at 15deg. and 327mm cut at 18deg.
2 4x4 post holders
2 pieces of 2x4, 6” and 7”
Several scrap pieces to put at the front and back. That adds stability while moving.

I had the engine on the crane,
- put the posts in position
- lowered the engine to where it would touch the posts
- tap the posts against the engine
- lower the engine completely so all the weight is resting on the posts
- secure the post holders to the 2x10
- attach the 2 short 2x4 to the engine arms. (just in case)
- place some scrap pieces under the engine, up front and at the back

Now the engine is fully accessible from all sides and remaining components can be attached.

[MarkCan]

Thank you guys.
When we can we use what we have available to keep on moving forward.👍
Those engines look magnificent.
What was the silver used for the valve cover?

[dirkbalter]

No silver, just glass bead blasted an a coat of Nyalic , clear for protection.

[MarkCan]

I tested with 100-150 glass bead but couldn’t achieve the satisfactory finish. Mind you my cover was in questionable shape to begin with. I have a small cabinet and can only run 30psi. Any more and the fog inside gets to heavy to see. I plan on testing with more efficient gun soon.
On a side note, I wouldn’t mind purchasing another valve cover. I want another kick at the can.

[dirkbalter]

Well, I like the way it came out. To me it looks good and original. There are other methods of finishing aluminum parts  which were discussed here. Some guys even polish these covers to a mirror like finish.
With respect to your cabinet, you need to connect a vacuum to get rid of the fog and be able to see if I may say that.
All the best.

[wwheeler]

Not sure what cabinet you have, but I used a TP abrasive blast gun and it uses much less air and has a great pattern. https://www.tptools.com/S-35-Series-Trigger-Operated-Power-Gun,8592.html  They also sell a really good siphon tube to go along with the gun.

Also, I have a vacuum set up to get rid of the dust. I use a standard Home depot Rigid shop vac, but have a 5 gallon bucket in line and before the shop vac. The 5 gallon bucket has about 2" of water in the bottom that catches almost all of the sand from the cabinet and prolongs the life of the shop vac. Works great. After awhile, you clean the sand sludge in the 5 gallon bucket. I hope that helps for the future. If you need pictures of the setup, let me know.

[MarkCan]

Well, I like the way it came out. To me it looks good and original.

I do too. That is the finish I’m aiming for.

As for the vacuum, I had one hooked up but it pulled way too much water out and in to the vacuum. I already bought the buckets to put inline and plan on assembly today. From what I see from my limited wet blasting experience is excessive air volume.
That’s where a better gun will come in.

[MarkCan]

Not sure what cabinet you have, but I used a TP abrasive blast gun and it uses much less air and has a great pattern. https://www.tptools.com/S-35-Series-Trigger-Operated-Power-Gun,8592.html

I can only do wet blasting in the garage as the dry media dust could have negative effects on my other projects.
I’m looking at two wet setup specific guns and I’ll share the results when I have them.

[wwheeler]

I just have about 2" of water at the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket and then direct the tube going in so it doesn't splash the water much. The sand filled air hits the water and traps the sand. Not much sand gets to the shop vac. I have a very strict procedure with having the vacuum on when opening the cabinet door and such. I have very little, if any, sand that comes from the blaster and the area remains clean.

The cabinet I have is a Harbor Freight. The trick I read to keep that cabinet from leaking dust is to seal it during assembly. I used urethane caulk and lots of it at every seam when assembling. Sure it has ugly excessive caulk beads on the outside, but no leaks.

[Bonnyboy]

I am interested in doing wet blasting as well.  Looking forward to your recommendations.

I can't believe that I am still finding sand blasting dust 2 years since I last used it.   

Hopefully a wet blasting system will solve my problems. 

[dirkbalter]

I just have about 2" of water at the bottom of the 5 gallon bucket and then direct the tube going in so it doesn't splash the water much. The sand filled air hits the water and traps the sand. Not much sand gets to the shop vac. I have a very strict procedure with having the vacuum on when opening the cabinet door and such. I have very little, if any, sand that comes from the blaster and the area remains clean.

The cabinet I have is a Harbor Freight. The trick I read to keep that cabinet from leaking dust is to seal it during assembly. I used urethane caulk and lots of it at every seam when assembling. Sure it has ugly excessive caulk beads on the outside, but no leaks.

I bought the large Harbor Freight one as well but basically only for the cabinet itself. You can not get a cabinet any cheaper. However, following some of the u-tube guys and their recommendations, it is heavily modified with respect to air circulation, glass windows, lights, proper blast gun, sealing of the panels... I like it a lot now that I am almost done with the project.
I am not familiar with the wet blasting but look forward to you findings.   

[MarkCan]

I’m considering this gun as one of the options;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vc4eWrhI5o

[yves]

 About Blasting cabinet , here is what i have made:

[yves]

some more photos ,

[MarkCan]

Hey guys, let’s start the new topic for the cabinet.

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=34013.0

This way we can stay focused on subject.