Replace Rear Axle Crush Washer Question

[AllenF]

Hi folks,

I made the rookie mistake of thinking I could replace the rear pinion seal safely by counting the turns on the nut so not to disturb the crush sleeve adjustment.   I replaced all of the other hardware on the axle, and I now have a strange clunk sound that occurs when I accelerate out of a corner.   My suspicion is the crush sleeve may be overcompressed and now I have introduced slop.   This is the taller ratio Euro axle I saved from another car and I am hoping I haven't damaged it.   

Couple questions...

Can this be replaced in the car without removing the axle assembly?  I have the MB BB but it's not clear if this can be accomplished.  I am afraid to take the axle to a rear end shop given past experiences.   

If this does require deep expertise and tools I probably don't own, is there anyone left in the Northwest that knows these?  The car turned out great, and I don't want to damage the rear end.   

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! 

Allen

[Benz Dr.]

Which way are you turning when you drive out of the corner?  Could be something as simple as the axle tube hitting your exhaust pipes.

[AllenF]

Thanks for the reply.  Seems more pronounced when I make a right turn, but I think it's happening both directions. I will check that though...

The noise developed over time, so my sense is that the exhaust probably didn't move but you never know...

Allen

[Peter]

The noise developed over time, so my sense is that the exhaust probably didn't move but you never know...

Hi Allen,
This is the main suspect.
Next check also the fixing and rubber of the mounting in the middle of the axle to the body.
The propeller well-adjusted before fixing?  Before fixing the car must be put once on the ground.

^Peter

[Pawel66]

I know that all you know this better than me, but maybe for the others who read these threads to learn like me: in e.g. W463 exhaust expands good 2 centimeters when hot. When you look at cold car, you need to budget for that.

[merrill]

hi
if all else fails you can check the rolling resistance of the pinion.

Shvegel provides guidance in the link below.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=27446.msg197106#msg197106


Best Matt

[AllenF]

Hi Folks,

Just thought I would follow up with the resolution ( I believe) to the axle "clunk" issue.   I went ahead and did the pinion/ crush sleeve and pre-load torque procedure but discovered the real issue as I brought it down from the lift.  I had checked this loose axle issue before, but probably didn't push hard enough on the axle.  But when she comes off the lift with the wheels at the dropped position, it put enough pressure on the axle to produce the clunk.   

Also, FWIW, I had no problem retrieving the crush sleeve from the front without disassembling the axle.    Mercedes Classic in CA had all the parts no problem.   


https://youtu.be/vNMIdlAu-5A

[AllenF]

Yup, looks like the lock washer on the axle was either not fully seated when it was installed last or it worked its way loose.  There was a 3/16 gap between the seat and the bearing.  So, when I went around corners and accelerated it would move one way or another.   

New parts enroute....

Allen

[cfm65@me.com]

Well done, Allen,
Chris

[Benz Dr.]

A note to consider:
The crush sleeve really doesn't crush very easily at all. When doing an axle a while back, we found that the pin socket we had would not work and kept popping off the nut when enough torque was applied to crush the sleeve. We made a fixture to hold the socket in place while turning the nut. After several tightenings, it finally settled into the prescribed turning resistance.

Keeping all of this in mind, tightening the nut as much as you can will not likely crush the sleeve any further when replacing the pinion seal. The amount it's crushed from the factory should be sufficient as long as nothing else is worn within the axle proper.

I always kind of worried that I would get the nut too tight when not tight enough would be more likely.

[Shvegel]

I second Dan's comments.  The new crush sleeves seem to be less crushable that the old ones.  Had to clamp the socket in and stand on an 18" breaker bar to get the correct rolling resistance.

[Benz Dr.]

I second Dan's comments.  The new crush sleeves seem to be less crushable than the old ones.  Had to clamp the socket in and stand on an 18" breaker bar to get the correct rolling resistance.

Yeah, we were surprised by how much force was required to crush the sleeve and it took a lot more force than expected.

[merrill]

I was researching the crush washer procedure because i think i have a pinion bearing issue and was surprised at the difference between the 230  vs 250/280 crush washers.

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