Exhaust System Removal

[studioPaGoNa]

Dear All,

I come back again to seek your assistance about removal of the exhaust system.

The middle exhaust pipe has a hole and it is leaking. The welding job is required.

I finally took off the six bolts of the front downpipe from the manifold. It takes two days to remove.
While I try to take the whole exhaust system out under the car, the downpipe stuck around the starter and it is impossible to further move it. No room. The exhaust system has no clamps and is welded in whole.

My clarification is simple.

Do I need to remove the starter as well in order to take the exhaust system out under the car ?
Or is there another trick to get it out?

Appreciate your advice on it.

Regards,Pagoda

[Figoulu]

I did it recently

The trick is to give enough play to your exhaust manifold by removing the rest of the exhaust line
In other words and according to my experience, there's no way to remove the manifold without removing the rest of the line untill  the end

[Vander]

Cut the 2 downpipes where they are welded together so they make 2 individual pipes instead of one pair, this will give you more leverage.

Also feel free to cut any other exhaust pipes into smaller pieces to get out of the car if you do not plan on reusing them.

[Cees Klumper]

I think Pagoda is trying to remove the system in one piece. It must be possible because it went in that way. I recall that it helps to raise the car up quite high so you can maneuver the system more. And removing the starter is not a big job, so if that is causing problems I would do that. For the manifold bolts it helps to have long extensions and wobble bits on your ratchet.

[MikeSimon]

If the exhaust is installed like the original, it was tagged on a gauge and final welded in place. I think, this provided some flexibility when installing, which is lost when final welded. All original exhausts I know of, were cut when removed.

[Cees Klumper]

I don't think it's possible to weld the system "in place". It's only tacked in place to make sure it is fitted/oriented perfectly, then removed 'as tacked', welded all around/fully, and then fitted in place fully welded. You can't "tack weld it", then somehow have it be flexible to squeeze in place, then weld it all-around. That's my understanding of the process anyway. I believe Joe Alexander described the process once or twice in the past.

[studioPaGoNa]

Hello,

Thank you very much for your advice.
 
I have finished a morning job today.
I removed the starter. Since I replaced the new one two years ago, It was not a harder job than last time.

I don't want to cut the pipes. Then I tried to remove the whole exhaust pipe in one piece. 
But I failed to get the front pipes out of the engine room. The front pipe is stuck at a kind of the steering axis?, since the tail pipe does not go down further.

I don't think that it is impossible to install or remove the system in one piece.
Although Pagoda is lifted with jack stands, it is not a sufficient lift enough to take the pipe out.
I think that at least two meter is required to be lifted.

I shall contact the shop which is fortunately located near my garage.
 
In the meantime, just for your interests, I attach some photos to overlook the current situation. Have a fun.

Regards, Pagoda

 

[stickandrudderman]

Indeed, it is possible to remove the entire system in one piece (think about it, during assembly it must be tack welded in place, then removed to be finished with seam weld around entire circumference which would not be possible without removing it) but as you have found out, you need the car to be elevated a considerable height.

[Pawel66]

Not a good news for me, I have only Quick Jack, which is about 0.5m of height. But on the other side, my central muffler with its two forward pipes is not directly welded to the downpipe. There are extensions in the downpipe that are clamp connected to the central muffler pipes. I can then separate the central muffler and need just the height for the downpipe with extensions...

[studioPaGoNa]

Good morning,

I wish to replace the clamp type but my local shop cannot deal with it.

The mechanic who came to see Pagoda understood the situation and accepted my request on the welding. But the shop is currently tied up and the welding job would be delayed some time.

Keep you informed on any development.

Regards, Pagoda

[studioPaGoNa]

Hello again,

I would like to seek your opinion while I am awaiting for the shop that is ready to receive my Pagoda for a welding work. Timely wise it is before the snow comes.

The background to ask your opinion is due to the fact that, I am afraid to say, the local shop is found to hardly have any experience on the old Mercedes exhaust even a general one as well.

I change the initial position and now tend to think that I cut the existing exhaust and utilize a clamp for reconnection in light of the future maintenance.  The crack unfavourably locates just at the joint part around the end of the front pipe, which makes a reconnection more troublesome.

I am contemplating that, therefore,
1) I cut both pipes at the crack location which is around the end of the joint part.
2) I adopt two new sleeves for both connections.
3) Each sleeve is welded to the existing front pipe. The other end of each sleeve is clamped to the existing center pipe. See an attached figure.
4) The clamp enables a precise adjustment so as to finalize a setup of the whole exhaust system in place.
 
My clarification is

1) Can the sleeve clamp without welded be durable on the rust center pipe in terms of the leak? I would consider to use a liquid gasket as well.
2) The stainless sleeve is preferable. Is the stainless amicable with the steel in view of welding?
3) Are there any issues to bear in my mind?

Do you think about my thought?
Appreciate of your advice if any.

Pagoda

[studioPaGoNa]

Dear All.

Thank you for your supports.

Please be informed that my Pagoda is securely garaged in the car shop and the pinhole exhaust pipe is successfully removed from the car, given that the car is lifted up by 2m high.

The removal reveals other several pinholes in the exhaust.

The remedial job is to be fulfilled by just re-welding at a minimum cost based on the shop master's recommendation.
I give up my idea on clamps as shown above.

The procedure of the remedy job is;
1) To remove all the rust on the surface to clarify all pinholes.
2) To re-weld all the pinholes revealed.
3) To make a coating in silver.

That 's it.

I changed the car shop for the remedy job from 2min nearby to 10min.
The shop master has an extensive experience to restore Actor Mr. Yousuke Natsuki's one among three 300SL in Japan, which is exhibited in the Japanese Car Museum.

Beside my Pagoda, 280SE 4.5L and 280S are under restoration.
The 280S is a very beautiful condition enough since it is a long time dead in the garage.

Keep you informed on any development.

Very best, Pagoda

[studioPaGoNa]

Dear All

Pleased be informed that my Pagoda comes back from the car shop, as the rewelding job on the exhaust is complete.
The professional rewelding job is beautifully done by utilizing the modern laser rust cleaner.
The silver coating is made as well using the paint sprays supplied by me.

Thank you for advices so far.

Very best, Pagoda

[Pawel66]

Fantastic!