Distributor disassembly

[MarkCan]

I'll give it a shot and see what it may cost to salvage this unit.

https://youtu.be/QDdq1HAwdwE

[cfm65@me.com]

Hey Mark,
My humble opinion, don’t go there.
For a few Bucks, Pounds, EU’s, Sheckels, Drachma or even South African Rands, you can get a state of the art, brand new “123 Distributer”
It is a drop in, fool proof electronic ignition dizzy. It comes in three models, basic up to programable with your PC on the run. It looks the part( original orangy colour)
I opted for the basic ones in my Pagoda as well as my E Type. Set them up, no points, no wobbling shafts, no nonsense, plug and play.
Regards
Chris

[Cees Klumper]

I'm with Chris on this one. I did take my old distributor all apart, cleaned everything, replaced bushings, springs and everything else in the rebuild kit. Posted it here in a thread whenever I did this, probably 15 years ago now or more. A few years later swapped it out for a 123 and I could tell immediately the car runs better - definitely smoother at idle. That's with me setting the timing on both my rebuilt distributor as well as the 123, on the same engine, same day, so since them I am converted. Put one into my son's 240Z, got one for my '72 Lancia. It's a worthwhile upgrade in my experience. Although I admit maybe my rebuilding skills or equipment was lacking, so there's that as well. But I'm sure there's good reasons why modern cars no longer rely on mechanical distributors.

[MarkCan]

I’m with you guys. It is simply not possible to achieve the same results with the classic  distributor across the whole rpm band. There are mechanical limitations and metal properties that we have very little influence over. That is not to say that they are bad, they were the best available solution at the time, today we have other options. I thought about A123 right from the get go. Right after I had the first look at it a year ago. Now I’m being challenged with originality. So yes we will see both. A123 as well as the original distributor.
From what I see currently, to properly rebuild and refinish our old distributor is not going to be any less expensive than replacing it with the A123. I’ve already made few steps on both fronts and I’ll update as I go.

A123 - I looked at the available options and I’m leaning towards the latest and greatest fully adjustable Bluetooth unit.
Bosch 047 - I finished disassemble today. I couldn’t get the bottom pin out to free the main shaft so I got some help in the machine shop. Few minutes on the EDM and there was a hole in the middle of the pin. Isn’t technology great? Few gentle taps, the pin was out and the shaft was free.

[Benz Dr.]

It took me a year or more before I figured out all of the tricks to successful distributor rebuilding. Having a tester is key to everything and a good working unit is every bit as good as a modern electronic unit. I've been running points in my car for over 25 years. I've never been left dead on the side of the road and a set of points will easily last 10 years for most occasional drivers. At less than 20 bucks for a set they're not expensive - thing is, you have to do it properly and not everyone can. 

Getting all of the play out of a slightly worn distributor is key to making them work properly. And no, I won't show you how I do it.    95% of all the cars I work on still run points. Why is that?

[MarkCan]

Getting all of the play out of a slightly worn distributor is key to making them work properly. And no, I won't show you how I do it.    95% of all the cars I work on still run points. Why is that?

Dan, I understand your approach. What is an existing hobby for me is the business for you and every business needs to have its secrets to keep the edge. At the same time I know that you’re a kind person and you will gladly inspect my work when it’s done.

[MarkCan]

Two projects are of to an excellent start.

Original Bosch distributor 0 231 116 047. From my research this unit was introduced to the very last segment of the 230SL engines. Than it was also used on the early 250SE and SL. There are 2 bushings in the distributor body with the upper one furnished with the oiling hole. Now, there is no oil line connection to feed that in any way. Would that be a carry over from another design? I already sourced a new set of bushings and hope to have it done tomorrow. Other than that, I have refinished the main body already, ordered all the worn parts and prep the ones I can reuse. I’ll provide the sources once I receive and examine the product.
Time committed this far 4 hours
Bellow is the pic of the now like new distributor body with the little patina going on the original product plate.

As for the A123, I ordered the tune+ version from 123 ignition USA his morning. This afternoon Ed already had it shipped.
Time committed 1/2 an hour.

[Benz Dr.]

I drill a small hole in the upper bushing if I replace it - oil cup needs to be removed first. There's a felt wick between the upper and lower bushings. I remove it first before I replace either bushing so it doesn't get damaged.

Late 230SL, 250SL, and early 280SL, all used the 051 unit. I think 047 may have been an earlier version. If you bring your distributor to me some time I'll run it on my tester and show you how to set it up.  Don't install the bottom drive collar so I can take it apart quickly if needed. 

[Kevkeller]

What’s the normal way to remove the pin at the bottom of the shaft?  I’ve tried pounding it out in the past but it didn’t budge. I was thinking of making a cradle and using a hydraulic press

[Cees Klumper]

If I recall correctly, the pin on mine came out fairly easily with a drift and small hammer. I think it's a press fit so a hydraulic press should do the trick?

[Benz Dr.]

I place the tangs of the drive collar in a vice so it's held firmly and then I use a drift to knock it out. I mark the collar and shaft to keep the orientation right. Drive collar is the last piece I install once I have the distributor set up.