Author Topic: Valve cover removal  (Read 5630 times)

awolff280sl

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Valve cover removal
« on: April 10, 2008, 06:53:02 »
I've got a question about removing the valve cover. From what I can see, I need to disconnect the linkage cross-over rod from the socket on the intake. Then I would remove the 2 nuts holding the rod to the bracket above the spark plugs. Then, I get stuck on how to disconnect the cross-over rod from the dashpot/throttle dampener assembly.

Andy
Sarasota, FL
Andy   Sarasota, FL
'69 280SL 4speed
'06 Mitsubishi Evo

pagoden

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2008, 01:57:47 »
Andy - All those ball-&-socket joints pop apart with judicious use of leverage -- if you can hold your tongue and a screwdriver or two just right to bring it to bear.  :~)  The rods bend pretty easily, so confine the application of force to areas as close to the actual joint as possible. To reassemble, manual squeeze may do it, or you may have to resort to pliers to bring the necessary force to bear, in which case you might want to consider padding the jaws to minimize scarring the metal. And while you're intimate with it all, work it back and forth (small movements) and peer closely to see the wear in each joint expressed as visible 'play' before the movement is passed on to adjacent links. (Joint parts are replaceable and obtainable separately.) Add a bit grease to the empty sockets if they're 'dry'; probably they'll be more like 'dirty' -- that's the remains of the last batch of grease. (You <will> get dirty if you're handling these; great place for surgical gloves.) Then come back one day, organized to clean house on the whole area, to maybe include rationalizing the linkage train, per the Linkage Tour -- a doable project, thanks to Joe's having pre-digested and published it here for us in plain english.

Denny
WashDC
1968/69 280SL, just+100k mi, manual 4, 3.46, both tops, 717/904

awolff280sl

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2008, 06:08:46 »
Thanks!!!

Andy
Sarasota, FL
Andy   Sarasota, FL
'69 280SL 4speed
'06 Mitsubishi Evo

graphic66

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #3 on: April 11, 2008, 15:25:35 »
You may need to lift the engine some from the rear mount to get the cover to clear the firewall.

Mike Hughes

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2008, 16:29:08 »
quote:
Originally posted by graphic66

You may need to lift the engine some from the rear mount to get the cover to clear the firewall.



If the car is put on a chassis lift (front wheels and crossmenber not supported) and lifted just enough for the front wheels to clear the ground the weight of the engine will make the cross member sag a little on its mounts (all the more reason to insure you have good crossmember mounts!).  This will drop the engine slightly in the engine compartment - just enough to get the valve cover free.

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havanna Brown (408)
  Light Beige (181)
  Cream M-B Tex (121)

- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
  Havana Brown (408)
  Light Beige (181)
  Cream M-B Tex (121)

jacovdw

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2008, 01:12:13 »
If there is a need for you to lift the engine slightly at the transmission side to clear the valve cover, then you are looking at a sagging rear (transmission) mount.

With new engine mountings, there would be no need to raise the engine at all.

As Mike Hughes mentioned, be careful of your subframe (crossmember) mountings if you are not sure of the condition thereof.

Regards,

Jaco van der Walt
1964 w113 230sl
1975 w114 230.6

glennard

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Re: Valve cover removal
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2008, 19:40:11 »
My 280SE has a 'C' clip holding the rod in the bushing.  My 230SL has the push in/pull out fixture.