Author Topic: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement  (Read 2182 times)

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« on: April 17, 2022, 20:46:47 »
Going through this exciting process of heater levers replacement (my original blue one turned black). Two points, just in case, to reduce time and frustration:

1. Check your new levers for reduced height of bosses on the blue one and orange/grey one, preferably before installation  ;). I knew about the grey one, I did not know about the blue one. Now I know. Attached is the picture of my original ones with lower bosses.

2. I found a different type of lighter form the one we have described in the Technical Manual. A simpler one to remove (picture attached). I spent quite some time trying to figure out how to unscrew the positive pin... Then I noticed I have a simpler lighter.

I placed both of these topics in the Technical Manual.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

MikeSimon

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, North Royalton
  • Posts: 2477
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2022, 21:42:14 »
I will have to replace the levers because the ones in my car are brittle and disintegrated. I cannot make out what you are saying exactly, Pawel. What is the issue with the bosses on the levers?
And I assume the cig lighter doesn't have anything to do with the heater levers, does it?
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2022, 22:35:21 »
Sorry for not making myself clear.

On the bosses: new heater leavers may come with all the bosses high, like those unmarked on my picture. To make the levers fit W113, you have to cut those I marked so that they are shorter. They have to be as low as the re-enforcement in the colored plastic part of the lever. Otherwise the ones on the orange/grey lever may interfere with the speaker and the one on the blue lever may interfere with the other upper heater cable.

Well, you have to remove the lighter to replace the levers. Otherwise you will not unscrew the left part of the chrome ornament, or this unscrewing will be very tough. You have to remove the glove box, clock, radio, speaker and lighter to get the heater lever unit out. Well, on 230SL you remove the whole panel with the lighter in, but in 280SL, you have to remove the lighter.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

MikeSimon

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, North Royalton
  • Posts: 2477
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2022, 12:01:56 »
Thank you, Pawel for explaining this. I had no idea that the cig lighter will have to be removed to get the chrome strip off.  The lighter in my car sits next to the radio, quite a bit away from the strip... ::)
1970/71 280SL Automatic
Sandy Beige
Parchment Leather
Power Steering
Automatic
Hardtop
Heated Tinted Rear Window
German specs
3rd owner

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2022, 14:06:31 »
Yes, I see you have 280SL. The procedure we have in the Technical Manual calls for removing the lighter. I left it there, having similar thoughts as you do, but then it came to unscrewing the left hand side chrome ornament - I cannot imagine doing it with the lighter there. Without the lighter I even managed to use 10mm socket and a small ratchet.

I broke the stud in the medium chrome piece... :( :(

But it broke in such a way (ca 5mm of stud stayed with the chrome piece) that I could fabricate threaded bushing that accomodated 6mm thread, but was enough OD wise to get through the orifice, so I saved it for today somehow.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2022, 18:37:44 »
I am enclosing a couple of, fairly poor, pictures of how the levers lights look like with grey plate for air distribution lever. I do not have comparison with orange, but the effect of the grey plate seems to be...orange.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

lreppond

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, CA, San Leandro
  • Posts: 639
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2022, 05:18:33 »
I have often wondered why modern sets of these levers replaced the grey one with orange.  Apparently the grey appeared orange because of the effect of the red one below it, so I guess the manufacturer(s) just decided to make it orange?
~Len

1971 280 SL
576G red/251 Beige
4 speed manual
Family owned since new (father —> son)

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2022, 06:34:03 »
Good question, I have no idea.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

doitwright

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, IL, Willowbrook
  • Posts: 652
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2022, 05:22:12 »
3rd Practical Point

Most of these heater levers just have the black rubber portion break or deteriorate. It is possible to remove the rivets and swap new rubber on to the original gray.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2022, 05:26:42 by doitwright »
Frank Koronkiewicz
Willowbrook, Illinois

1970 280SL Originally Light Ivory - Now Anthracite Gray Metallic

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2022, 13:21:05 »
ok, 4th practical point: we know we need to lubricate the obvious surfaces that work together (clear cylinders and levers, heads of cable screws and aluminum frame). But when I failed to lubricate the cable screws themselves - they were squeaking.
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class

JohnnyC

  • Full Member
  • Regular
  • **
  • USA, CA, Escondido, CA
  • Posts: 87
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2022, 15:54:06 »
Pawel66, I have been rebuilding the heater levers in my 280SL also.  What can you recommend to use as a lubricant.  I have thought about silicon grease or Sil-glide.

Cheers and thank you,
JohnnyC.
John
'70 280SL (In Rebuild), Dk Olive/Cognac
'85 BMW Euro M635csi, Polaris Silver
'54 MG TF, Black
'01 Lazy Daze RV, White/Tan
'10 Genesis Coupe, Silver
'19 F150, Black

Pawel66

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Poland, Mazowieckie, Konstancin-Jeziorna
  • Posts: 5494
Re: Two Practical Points on Heater Levers Replacement
« Reply #11 on: April 22, 2022, 17:22:43 »
I have no idea. I used dry PTFE, but in the procedure in Technical Manual white grease is used. I am not educated enough to recommend responsibly...
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
W128 220SE
W121 190SL
G-class