The right way to wash?

[sl113newguy]

I am thinking there are others here who are as obsessive about washing their car as I would like to be    so I’m looking for tips on the basics (a regularly driven car in the sun; has original paint). I’ve seen some posts on detailing but not focused on washing (let me know if I have overlooked them though!)…

Any advice on what has worked for you for:
Frequency
Sponges v microfiber v sheepskin v …
Type of soap
Drying towel type
Wax or no

Thanks all!

[franjo_66]

I drive my 230SL 3-4 times weekly, so she gets a weekly wash.

My tips as follows, and since I have a black car, I'm extra cautious

1. I use only microfibre sponges

2. gentle, foamy shampoo (ie Ph neutral)

3. I use two buckets. One has the shampoo, other is for rinsing/cleaning the sponge

4. Rinse/clean sponge frequently during wash to not allow trapped dirt to create swirls on paintwork

5. I dry first with a blower. Special attention to rubbers, external moulds etc and anywhere that water tends to accumulate. This includes inside of doors, inside fenders, grille etc

6. I then use a drying towel to blot up any spots.

7. I apply a quick detailer post every wash. Its a ceramic coating detailer that is easy to apply and boosts protection from UV etc.

8. Proper wax/sealant is applied when I polish/detail the car (twice per year)

Products I use are usually from Chemical Guys range for shampoos, detailer, etc

[MikeSimon]

I only use brushes on my classic cars to wash. Anything else will trap contaminants and rub and grind them into the paint.

[JohnnyC]

Greetings, I see you mention using a blower.  I don’t use a blower, I use a vacuum. Why inject water into areas that accumulate water and debris, thus inhibiting corrosion. On the plastic nozzle, I used tape to protect the paint, the nozzle may have damaged edges. So, the vacuum sucks the water out of the cracks, works for me. Also, I very rarely wash my collector cars.

Cheers and God Bless,
JohnnyC

[wwheeler]

I have a friend who is a high end detailer and he has given me some tips. I don't wash my old Mercedes, but then I don't drive them in the rain. But for the daily cars, I do wash by hand.

- To apply the soap, you can use a foam gun or one that can be used with a garden hose. The less you contact the paint with mitts, towels, etc, the better.
- I was told to use a high quality wash mitt like this -   https://www.autofiber.com/collections/mitts/products/zero-cuff-microfiber-wash-mitt?variant=41128665940161 BTW, Autofiber has great products
- When using using the mitt, go in a front to back motion. Do not swirl the mitt.
- Autofiber's drying towel soaks up an unbelievable amount of water. Don't use a Chamois. https://www.autofiber.com/products/dreadnought-xl-microfiber-car-drying-towel-20-in-x-40-in-1100gsm-1-pack?_pos=1&_sid=536f5e2ea&_ss=r&variant=34491742257305
- Applying a quick detailer every wash isn't needed if you use a ceramic coating from Gtechnique -  https://gtechniq.com/c2v3-liquid-crystal/ This stuff isn't snake oil. It really works and I have used it on all cars (old included) and is amazing. Excellent water beading, enhances paint color, creates a very slippery surface and lasts for 4 to 6 months if washed weekly. Lasts for years if not washed. Much better than traditional waxes. I was hesitant to try it, but now I highly recommend it. You can also use it on wheels to make it is easier to wash off brake dust.

Anyway, just some thoughts. 

[lreppond]

I rinse my car with a garden nozzle on the shower setting.  Next, i use a foam gun to take care of any grime that may be on the surface.  I then rinse everything thoroughly.  For the tires I use a Chemical Guys tire brush and use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser on the white walls.  After the final rinsing I use a Master Blaster blower paying close attention to wheel wells, where the hardtop meets the body, doors, and any place where water can collect.  If there’s any moisture I then use a microfiber towel to dap it up and to lightly buff the windows and brightwork.  I have original paint on my car so I attempt to do no rubbing.  The key is keep it clean and to preserve the paint without scratching. Rubbing even with microfiber cloths will do some scratching. 

I have not tried ceramic coating but I have read very positive reviews.  After I’m finished refurbishing my interior, I plan to have some paint correction done and then may choose to do a ceramic finish. 

[Taleb]

make sure when you wash your car you have to drive it straight away for at lease 10 minutes to dry probably , otherwise expect rust under the rubbers ... never wash it and leave it for days .

[sl113newguy]

Thanks all.
Many new bits of information to me...
Hadn't heard of washing back to forth v swirling - all good info!

[mauro12]

I wash only when is dirty or after a rain ( not so often ) . I prefer to have a wet microfiber towel and wash in this way , without direct contact . I’m afraid water can hide and create rust . After everything is dry , I use 2 times per year a good wax from meguire . Carnauba liquid wax

[lreppond]

I was surfing the net and really enjoy watching this detailing channel.  In this video he explains the correct way to wash a car and explains why.  I found the entire episode to be informative. I appreciated the manner in which he clearly explained his reasoning. 

[TJMart]

I was surfing the net and really enjoy watching this detailing channel.  In this video he explains the correct way to wash a car and explains why.  I found the entire episode to be informative. I appreciated the manner in which he clearly explained his reasoning.

Hey Len,

No link to the channel. Sounds interesting though.

Tony

[lreppond]

Oops.   

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sys0vWe23tY&list=PLNT1tuSmUPZkvBn0vUSbAZOIsvNu0yNn9&index=17&t=722s

[specracer]

You also can consider a resin based filer system (I have 2 one at home one at our shop).

https://crspotless.com/

You can buy the resin in bulk here:

https://usa.windows101.com/products/mb1-1-non-regenerable-virgin-mixed-bed-di-resin-1-cubic-foot?_pos=3&_sid=3d1256a18&_ss=r

As mentioned, foam gun, and 2 buckets are all good advice.

[wwheeler]

I have the CR spotless device. Works great and eliminates water spots. In Texas when it is 100* in the shade, you need all the help you can get to dry up the water before it dries and leaves the dreaded water spot. One thing not mentioned is to use a leaf blower or such to blow off the majority of water off. It also removes water from the traps where water collects and will continue to drip. I use an electric one and works just fine. Also extends the usefulness of the drying towel.