subframe mount renewal

[Davek1]

Hi all, one last job this winter was to replace the subframe mounts on my 280sl. I had a feeling they very coming to the end of their live as the front end was a bit Woolley going into corners. I must thank other members write ups on the ways of going this,
as always they are great help. One lifting the car I could see mine had totally broken in half. I had purchased a Febi set and also a MB set, so was able to compare the two. The only real differences (apart from the price) were the MB ones were 2mm higher and with the Febi ones, the rubber around the neck felt softer and not so sold in construction.

[Davek1]

Here are some more pictures. The old mounts were also MB, probably original. the old mounts part number was 1113301475 were as the new part number on the new mounts are 1113301575, why the difference I am not sure as this is the only mount MB sell. Its the same part number in the 113 and 108 kit. the old mounts had torn and collapsed by 14mm compered to the new ones.

[Pinder]

Wow the old ones really flattened down. I am also thinking of replacing mine but afraid of how hard this might be. I don't have a lift. Did you do this without a lift?

Regards

Pinder

[Davek1]

I am lucky I have a lift, but if you jack it up and use stands or block it up that should be fine. Most of the work is at front and under the wheel arch. I never disconnected the brake line as I had enough on them, so that saved a job.

[stickandrudderman]

It's one of those jobs that's relatively straight forward as long as everything goes to plan. However when it doesn't it can be a problem. I've had to use oxy-acetylene to get them off in the past.
As for after-market; if you can detect a small difference on the bench, imagine how much difference there'll be in actual performance.

[Davek1]

I am hoping once the weather breaks in the UK the difference will be really noticeable as it was getting like, I would turn the steering and wait for the car to follow. Would be interesting to see if one could tell the difference in the after market ones on the car. I am sure the MB ones will last longer though.

[Pinder]

I definitely want to try replacing. Worse case I bolt it all back up again.  Its on my to do list.

Regards

  Pinder

[Bshaunessy]

DAVEK1:
   Q? have you got the new subframe mount rubbers  installed yet?  I have new OEM subframe rubbers to install  AND a lift but got thwarted as I couldn't extract the original rubbers…..not enough travel in the A arm.
  In an off forum exchange with DR Benz, Lambton Ontario Canada he advised (1) this is a thought job and (2) he built a special tool to ( safely) provide enough A arm travel to remove old rubber and insert new rubber.   I haven’t tried building said special tool yet…..too daunting for me at this stage.
   So….if you’ve had success ….pls share the process ( pics to pls?)

[mauro12]

How much did you pay for the mb mounts ?

[Benz Dr.]

We came up with a way to change sub frame mounts that's both quick and safe. Prying with bars is NOT safe. I will post a picture of the tool we made. 

[Pinder]

That would be great to see the tool as I plan to do this job sometime soon. Just a little afraid of it becoming a cluster.

[Bshaunessy]

Dan Caron / Dr Benz
   Similarly , I would like to see the special sun frame mount removal and installation tool you built.   I started down the pry bar path but quit as I felt it was too sketchy a process.
   So….do tell pls?

[Davek1]

Just a quick update, I took the old girl out this evening, this being the first proper drive since I changed the subframe mounts and what a difference. Its like its on rails compared to the "all over the road" as before. I could not believe the difference.
This along with changing my 4.08 rear axle for a 3.27 one with all rear end bushings and its starting to really drive nice.
I was wondering if I am the only one with a 3.27 rear end in the UK as this rear end is quite uncommon here.

[Pinder]

That’s good . Well done. I just put mine in today. Yet to drive it. Have a few details to button up. But I am pleased how relatively  smooth the install was.

Regards

 Pinder

[Benz Dr.]

The tool we came up with is really quite simple. It uses a muffler clamp and one half of a spring compressor.

The clamp is fastened around the bottom of the cup on the sub frame where the sub frame mount would sit so the clamp won't move and the jaws of the compressor are turned upside down so that you can force the frame of your car and the sub frame apart.  Turn the nut under the compressor so that it will slowly pry the sub frame and body of the car apart until you can safely install the new mount.
We used to use a big pry bar which can be rather dangerous at best.

[Pinder]

Thats nice.  I ended up using a pry bar in a rush to get it all done. I agree the prybar is a bit risky but I was able to do it alone with a use of a lot of swear words etc.

Regards

   Pinder

[Davek1]

Sometime the simple things can make things so much easier. I always think that us DIY mechanics have to usually only ever do a job once on our cars so can never really lean by our mistakes. If I was to do all my jobs again I think I would be twice as fast.

[Bshaunessy]

THANKS DAN / Dr BENZ:
  I’ve had the new subframe rubber mounts for six months now but unable to get them in place.   Will try your tool trick.   Looks much safer than the pry bar routine.

[Benz Dr.]

THANKS DAN / Dr BENZ:
  I’ve had the new sub frame rubber mounts for six months now but unable to get them in place.   Will try your tool trick.   Looks much safer than the pry bar routine.

It is. We do a couple of them every year so the chances for someone to get hurt increases substantially using a pry bar.

[Mike Hughes]

Dan, do you use this tool when the car is on the ground or on a lift?  For those of us who haven't attempted this job, it would be interesting to see a set of photos of it fixed in place on a car, and then in action as the subframe and car are separated.  Might be a great addition to the Wiki.

[Benz Dr.]

Dan, do you use this tool when the car is on the ground or on a lift?  For those of us who haven't attempted this job, it would be interesting to see a set of photos of it fixed in place on a car, and then in action as the subframe and car are separated.  Might be a great addition to the Wiki.

Yeah, I've thought about that. I'm not the guy taking the pictures so it takes a while to get these things done.

We work on the hoist  for this job with everything disconnected so the sub frame can move independently from the body of the car.

[Mike Hughes]

When on the hoist, is the subframe supported on the hoist?

[Pinder]

I dont know if it helps others but I found doing this without a lift was fine and using a couple of jacks helped me. I used the scissor jack from my other car that helps in lowering or raising the sub frame by very small amounts.  Do the drivers side first as its easier with less things in the way. loosening the engine mount bolt gives a bit more clearance.

THis tool that Dr Benz has should work even if you have the car on the ground (frame on jack stands at the front and the sub frame disconnected one side at a time. it looks like it the camp goes around the metal cup shape on top of the spring and the hook fits into the lip of the body frame. Sort of where I used a pry bar but this is much safer and could I think be done by one person.