Author Topic: hanging a new exhaust system  (Read 10774 times)

ja17

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hanging a new exhaust system
« on: February 23, 2003, 19:02:58 »
Hello group,

Thought I might get a new topic going. There has not been much discussion on exhaust installations.

A poorly installed exhaust can create vibrations, rattles, exhaust noises and fumes. In addition it may hang visibly too low and may cause the exhaust tail pipes to be positioned incorrectly. In severe circumstances the expensive exhaust manifolds can also be damaged by a poorly installed system.  A correctly installed exhaust can make a world of different in the driveability a feel of the car. The original chrome tailpipe ends are chrome plated brass and are hard to salvage for re-use. Some formed sheetmetal hanger parts are separate parts which may need to be ordered, depending on their condition. Do not cut corners on replacing the inexpensive rubber mount parts with new. Replacement of the front pipe to manifold seals and bolts is also inexpensive and worthwhile.
 It might be nice to compile a complete list with part numbers for all these little goodies. Everyone will need this information sooner or latter.

Installation;
The condition of the motor mounts may effect the position a little. Most fit up problems are caused by improper installation. If a
platform lift is not available, the job can be done on jack stands. When I install a new exhaust on a 113 I first jack up the car, then place four jack stands under the suspension so the suspension is loaded. I position all exhaust parts, in the exact position, before welding. I bolt and tighten up the front pipes, hang both mufflers with all the rubber hangers, and temporarily fit all the parts in place using more jack stands to keep everything from sagging. Once everything is in it's exact place, I check around all the pipes and mufflers to make sure there is enough clearance so nothing will rub or rattle after installation. I also make sure the system is up in place and not positioned too low. Make sure the position of the two tail pipes are level and in proper position at the rear of the car. Finally I spot-weld all the connections while in position. I then loosen the entire system low enough to finish running solid welds around every pipe. After finishing the welding the entire system is once again installed. Clamps can be used at the front pipe connection, however use of additional clamps will probably cause the system to sag and/or rattle eventually. Make sure all exhaust supports are attached correctly. This is a lot of work but it will give you a solid rattle free exhaust system which will not sag out of position. Good luck.







Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: February 23, 2003, 22:25:35 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Tom

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2003, 19:58:30 »
Joe,

You say..."Make sure the exhaust support from the transmission is attached correctly."  I don't believe that I have such supports-do you have a picture or are these shown in the BBB?

Best,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2003, 21:58:05 »
Hello Tom,
My memory failed me here. I believe only the sedans had this extra exhaust/transmission support! Thanks for the correction! I edited the original message so it is technically correct. Nice feature on this new site!


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
« Last Edit: February 23, 2003, 22:30:00 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Cees Klumper

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #3 on: February 24, 2003, 00:53:41 »
On my car, the front pipe to manifold connection is impossible to get tight, because the pipes are too short - thus, even inserting three (!!) seals does not create enough of a distance between the flanges and the manifold to make the fit tight. As a result, they keep loosening, even when I use two nuts on the 6 bolts and countertwist them to maximum tightness.
Also, somewhere halfway down the system, there is an annoying air leak that always closes up as the exhaust gets hot, but I cannot seem to get closed off when cold. It appears to be where the only clamps on the whole system are (the rest is welded).
After three years of fiddling with this, I have resolved to get a new exhaust system front to back. Don't know whether I will attempt to weld it myself. Although I can do basic welding, I am afraid to do it so close to the car's body, fuel lines etc.

Thanks for the "exhaustive" post Joe!!
Cees

'69 white 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Tom

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #4 on: February 24, 2003, 14:17:16 »
Another item related to this subject.  My header pipe connection to the exhaust was very close to some type of mount that protrudes from the body of the car.  By adding a few large spacing washers to the point where the transmission is bolted to the body (large bolt behind the transmission drain), the egnine and transmission was tilted higher, allowing for adequate clearance.
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2003, 17:29:42 »
Hello Tom,
Yes that is the steering idler arm mount. The exhaust front pipe is very close to it.  If the right side engine mount is bad or weak the exhaust front pipe will be even closer or touching!



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Cees Klumper

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2003, 00:35:10 »
On my car there is a small metal plate that protects the (components included in the) top of the steering idler arm from the heat of the exhaust downpipe. It is attached with a bracket and, when unfastened, comes off completely. Reason I mention it is that I can imagine that, after so many years, it could go missing and leave your idler arm unprotected.

'69 white 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Tom

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2003, 18:31:07 »
Cees,

I am traveling and can't get a look at this on my car.  Do you have picture you could post?

Best,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

Cees Klumper

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #8 on: March 02, 2003, 12:17:09 »
I will take a picture next time I see my car (a single car garage in the center of Amsterdam, where I live, costs around $100,000, so I have one that is located 15 minutes away from my home - by bicycle).

'69 white 280 SL
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

W14

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #9 on: May 05, 2003, 00:30:49 »
Pictures of Idler Arm Heat Shield:



Download Attachment: Heat shield 2.JPG
77.08 KB

Download Attachment: Heat shield size.JPG
75.64 KB

Download Attachment: Heat shield.JPG
69.5 KB

Will W14
1965 230SL 4spd
Victoria,BC

Tom

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2003, 20:30:19 »
My car does not have that heat shield.  Does anyone have a part number for this part?

Thanks in advance,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

ja17

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #11 on: May 26, 2003, 21:51:35 »
Hello Tom,
From Edition C (dealer's parts book) table 17, Goup46, page 125, parts 135 and 136

Two parts and three pieces of hardware are needed. protective plate #108-463-00-90, bracket #111-463-11-40, Screw #000933-006026, lock washer #000127-006203, nut #000934-006006.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Tom

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2003, 19:13:46 »
Thanks Joe-I loooked at my parts book and would never have been able to identify that part.

Best,

Tom
1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic

CarlG

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2003, 03:42:01 »
I had a whole exhaust system, after the manifold, installed about 5 years ago.  I see now it was obviously not done correctly as it did chatter against the body near the back.  It doesn't chatter any more, but has done some minor damage to the rear fender.  Is the only way to correct the installation to cut and reweld?

Second question.  My car gets hot under the passenger side floorboard, is this a sign of incorrect installation, or do I just need more heat insulation over there?

1967 230sl (stick)

Richard Madison

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2003, 06:20:06 »
Heat under pax seat: there should be a large (about 10 inches wide maybe 2 feet long) metal shield between the exhaust pipes and the pax floorboard area...and there should be 1 inch thick foil covered insulation under the carpet in the pax seat area...maybe these are missing in your hot car?
Richard M
« Last Edit: May 30, 2003, 06:21:36 by 280SL71 »
1969 280 SL, Tunis Beige, Euro Model (Italy).

Ricardo

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Re: hanging a new exhaust system
« Reply #15 on: May 30, 2003, 06:28:29 »
Carl
I had the same problem when I purchased my car, a split worn through the rear quarter panel where the rear muffler rubbed against it. My son and I installed a complete new system using an aftermarket (ANSA) headpipe and the two connecting pipes along with MB mufflers. As has been stated here before, the headpipes were a poor fit and we had to make a couple of "adjustments" to them by heating and bending. What was critical to the positioning of the rear muffler was the positioning of the two interconnecting pipes. These pieces are identical but need to be positioned just so, or the rear muffler will cant at a bad angle. They can be installed either way round , as both ends are the same dia., but only one way gets the proper location. Turning them a slight amount changed the position of the rear muffler. Perhaps you could get those pipes unwelded and still be able to move them or at least they are the cheapest part of the system to buy. It is possible to get a good fit, my system is really close to the floor, is not hanging too low anywhere, no rattles or rubs and the pass. floor is warm but acceptable. Make sure you have the heat shield that covers the idler arm, it is available if yours is missing.Hope that helps
Richard V
« Last Edit: May 30, 2003, 06:33:34 by Ricardo »