High Output Heater Core

[jond907]

Hi Fellow Pagoda Enthusiasts,

Does anybody know if there is a high output heater core available for the 280SL? I have a customer asking for one and wanted to inquire if they even exists. Thanks in advance for any related info.

[Norm]

I just had installed a "new" OEM heater core that I bought from The Classic Center.  They advised there were 8 available in Germany through MB when my order was placed a few months ago.  They made no mention of a "high output" being an option.  I'm sure you are aware of the available heat in the OEM set up, which seems pretty satisfactory to me.  But maybe someone wants to drive with the top down in cooler weather 

Good luck.

Norm

[jond907]

It may be that they just have an old inefficient heater core that needs to be replaced, or an old blower motor that's not pushing enough. We still haven't pulled the heater core out yet, so I will comment when we've looked at it.

[doitwright]

A stuck valve will also restrict fluid through the core. A radiator shop should be able to tell you if the core can be rebuilt (if necessary) since it is essentially a radiator. The radiator shop can also test, soak and clean internals. Hooking up a water hose to one end will also tell you if there are any internal restrictions.

[WRe]

Hi,
there were extra options 492/493USA for a heavy-duty heat exchanger and a special equipment description for it (SA55485: high powered heater case) which show the following spare part number: A1138350101. But I found nothing more about it.
The normal heat exchanger had part number A1138350001.
...WRe

[teahead]

I would go new rather than re-core.

This is something you only want to do once.

[WRe]

Hi,
I would assume that the heavy-duty version has the same size but a high performance heater bloc. For that reason and a very low heating performance of our cars I would re-core the heat exchanger with a high performance core.
...WRe

[mdsalemi]

I'm laughing at all of this.

Why? Because these cars run so $#@! hot, who really needs MORE heat?  This is why the hoods/bonnets are aluminum; to aid in heat dissapation on a very hot design. My car throws off so much heat, it's unbearable in the summer. If it's cold enough to really need lots of heat I simply don't use the car, but getting heat is NOT a problem. I've driven it in the dead of winter and no issue with heat.  Like so many cars of the era, it doesn't take much to get these cars to overheat...

Then as a greater laugh, (to me, not at anyone's expense here) this inquiry comes from San Diego!  About the most pleasant and consistent climate in the 50 states...

[mbzse]

.../...I would assume that the heavy-duty version has the same size but a high performance heater bloc.../...

That's correct, outer dimensions were the same but the core was tighter with a denser grid.
All M-B sold in the Scandinavian/Nordic countries had this heavy duty passenger compartment heater version as standard. Together with larger battery, heavy duty suspension etc. this was part of the country specific SA code.  E.g. SA 624 = Version for Sweden.

[jond907]

The car is actually going to the bay area, but I also thought the same thing. It doesn't get cold enough there to need more heat. It must be a faulty heater core that needs to be replaced or some blockage in there. I'll let you know when we get it out.

[jond907]

Thanks WRe for the info on the heavy duty heat exchanger, I'll look it up.

[jond907]

Thanks mbzse, there's always something new to learn about the W113. I'll see if it's still available.

[Benz Dr.]

I deal with these issues all the time because it does get cold around here. Even in the summer it can get cold enough that a little heat is nice on a damp night or if it's raining. My bet is the tap needs indexing. I've worked on my own car enough that it will just about cook you out of the cabin on a cold day. I believe this problem is just a mater of adjustment.

In many cases I've found that I had to experiment with different combinations of settings until I found one that worked and sometimes I've had to cut the profile down on the limiter so that the tap would open further. Regardless of all of these things, your main concern should be making sure that your heat is shut off fully when closed. Even a bit of heat coming out will really add to discomfort in the summer.

[mbzse]

.../...I've found that I had to experiment with different combinations of settings until I found one that worked.../...

As discussed before, there are 32 different ways to assemble the three parts: arm, limiter plate and center valve body piece.
Only one is right!   (will give you the correct heater valve operation).

Some previous postings:
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28013.msg213377#msg213377
=https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22680.msg162294
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=31.msg32459#msg32459

See also our Technical Manual https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/HeaterControlValve

[jond907]

We finally took out the heater core and it was shot (leaking, and had been repaired at some point) Thanks everybody for the input, we'll put a new heater core later this week.

[acbrock]

I am at the Core and just had it recored.  Should I paint it black?  But more importantly I am trying to get the linkage off of the car to reattach to the core because I think my Valve needs to be freed and cleaned.  How do these ball connectors work?  Do they just pop off if I pull them or are they connect for life and I should just unscrew each connector?  But I see the photos of just the ball?  Is there a trick to get them apart? Mine are soaking tonight!  So I hope to rip them apart tomorrow.  Really pissed the guys who recored the Core did not work on the valve.  I assumed an no I am the ass.

[WRe]

https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=36520.msg267096#msg267096

[Vander]

I've never met a recore shop that didn't automatically paint their product black as part of their standard service. The ball linkage pops off just like the linkages in the engine bay. The link WRe posted will be helpful.

[acbrock]

awesome thanks.  just got the valve out.  New ring and we start putting her back together!