M130 rusty fuel filter & fuel line question

[CFF]

Hi! I have a couple of questions. I was able to get all of the rubber fuel lines around the injection pump from Mercedes except for this line. Is there a place that can crimp a new piece of hose on? Or should I Dremel the crimps and use fuel hose and a couple of clamps?

Also I changed the fuel filter and after about 7 years and 3k miles there was a bit of rust. Is that enough to worry about? Fuel pump is new previous owner replaced it with the short one around that time.

Thanks!!!

[dirkbalter]

You may want to clean and re-seal your tank as well. Otherwise, make sure you have a good filter before the pump. (Don't ruin the pump with debris from the tank)

I bought the line you are looking for somewhere but forgot where. If you don't find a local shop that can crimp it, may be below will help.
https://www.budsbenz.com/catalog/230-250-280-sl/d-fuel/D234-135C

Alo SLS sells a substitute arrangement.

[CFF]

Thanks this is what came out. I was thinking about just replacing the tank?

I'm going to try a local shop first but I have never had any luck, as soon as you say older Mercedes and not Mack truck they lose interest.

[rwmastel]

There is a screen in the fuel tank.
There is a screen in the inlet to the electric fuel pump.
There is a main filter in the engine bay.

Where did this bucket of fuel and rust come from?

Don't give up on your fuel tank yet.

[CFF]

The main cartridge fuel filter in the engine bay. The previous owner spent a lot of money on a new electric pump so I don't want to kill it. At the very least should I drop the tank and see what's what?

[Pawel66]

I think it is a good practice to add in-line filter on the hose from the tank to the pump. If you have original lines diameter, it is 9mm so this is the kind of filter you need to find, otherwise you would have to use modifications as per Kent Bergsma advise (nylon tubes on filter fittings to give them more thickness).

[rwmastel]

At the very least should I drop the tank and see what's what?

Yes.

With the sender out and the screen out, you can see enough to know if you have a problem.  Mine was a little rusty when I got my car, the main canister was 1/3 full of rust!!  I sprayed the tank out with a hose and it lasted 10 years.  Car has been off the road 13 years,  :'(  so I will replace mine.    There are ways to seal the tank, described many times on the forums.  New MB tanks are about $1,000.  New aftermarket are about $500.  Once you have the tank out, study and understand the ventilation system and replace that tubing.

[bracurrie]

The "Flower" in the bottom of the tank makes it difficult to treat a rusty tank. Going new while you can get one may be the best play.

[CFF]

So here’s an update. After doing a little research I don’t want to mess with a rusty tank I don’t think because of the design they can be properly coated inside. While I can get a new one from Mercedes I figured I should so ordered a new tank from the classic center for $600.

[ctaylor738]

Authentic Classics has a repro version of the fuel line you mentioned.

https://www.authenticclassics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=1290700632

Good luck with your project,

CT

[rwmastel]

While I can get a new one from Mercedes I figured I should so ordered a new tank from the classic center for $600.

Do you know which size tank you got?  Which model/year car is yours?  (Might help to add it to your signature?)

[dirkbalter]

Do you know which size tank you got?  Which model/year car is yours?  (Might help to add it to your signature?)

His subject line says M130, and the parts he is looking for indicate 280sl.

I think $600 from Mercedes is a very good price. Probably not worth messing with an old rusty tank.

[Lorsar]

In his previous posts, he mentioned he just purchased a 69 280SE

[CFF]

In his previous posts, he mentioned he just purchased a 69 280SE

I’m just asking about the M130 fuel system which is common to a couple of models.


The depth of knowledge here on the M130 is fantastic I hope after a while I can add to it and be a contributing member of this community.

[CFF]

Authentic Classics has a repro version of the fuel line you mentioned.

https://www.authenticclassics.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=1290700632

Good luck with your project,

CT

Thsnks! I purchased one from vintage euro parts out of California. I wish I saw this Authentic Classic ships to me faster.

[rwmastel]

$600 from Mercedes would have been a great price.  From Vintage Euro, it's the going price.  Good luck with your project.

[CFF]

Quick update. I installed the new fuel tank today, it was a pretty straight forward job. I pulled the sending unit out of the old tank and got a good look inside it was pretty rusty.

Quick question I have the updated short fuel pump is there a screen in it that I can clean out while everything is apart? I tried looking inside the intake nipple but didn’t really see anything. It looks like it would come right out and had a crush washer to seal it.

Quick tip: on the new tanks they have foam pads on the top that go up against the cars body so the tank sits tightly to the car. Those might not be exactly in the right place. I went to put the tank up and it wasn’t going all the way. Two of the foam pads were hitting a rib in the trunks floor. I scrapped them off the tank and stuck them alongside the rib on the car and the tank went up perfectly.

Just a heads up if the tanks fighting you they might need to be moved around a bit.
 

[Pawel66]

This is how the screen in the fuel pump looks like (courtesy of Members here).

If it did not come out and if you cannot see it stuck inside the pump - you do not have it.

The remedy is - install in-line fuel filter between tank and pump or try to get a screen for fuel pump (try with Baron Youngman here, our fuel pump expert) or both. I have both.

[CFF]

Update I couldn’t get the screen out of the pump, but I removed the pump and was able to spray out the screen with it in place so it’s clean now. It was full of junk. This is a rebuilt short pump from authentic classics the previous owner installed.

I’m glad I took the pump out the wire nuts were on hand tight and lose! So I checked everything and whoever installed the pump left a few nuts lose and lost a couple for the shield. I got replacements and properly tightened everything up. I also replaced all the fuel hoses.

I poured in 5 gallons of fresh gas and disconnected the fuel line before the fuel filter and stuck it in a soda bottle. I turned on the key and pumped out all the gas in the lines into the bottle until it looked clean. I reconnected the line and let the pump pressurize the system. So far no leaks!

Now I have completely re hosed the fuel system, with all clean filters and fresh gas. Next week I’m going to get it started I still have to put the radiator back in. If the salt gets washed off the roads I’ll take it for a ride and start the linkage tour and tuning it so it runs better!

I’ve been doing some research into 123 ignition. I think I’m going to buy one of their distributors.

[Pawel66]

123, I think, is a very good idea. Go for the Bluetooth version, easy to operate and offers immobilizer.

May want to consider in-line filter between the tank and the pump.

[BaronYoungman]

Pawel is absolutely correct a inline filter between tank and fuel pump is a VERY WORTHWHILE  investment. Bob

[CFF]

I just want to close out this thread with a final update:

I finally got the car back together and the roads are clear of salt so I took it for a spin. I could not believe the difference in how it runs! If you have any issues with a rusty tank I would not hesitate to replace it.

My stalling issue seams to have been resolved!

[mdsalemi]

…I could not believe the difference in how it runs! If you have any issues with a rusty tank I would not hesitate to replace it.

My stalling issue seems to have been resolved!

No surprise! Congratulations—you’re good for another 40+ years.